Sew News Magazine

Patchwork Wrap


Patchwork Wra
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By Barbara Weiland
Rich velvets, brocades and gold-dusted prints and plaids combine in this easy-to-sew patchwork shawl--the perfect cover for your elegant eveningwear. Not much on dressing up? This savvy shawl doubles as a dramatic table covering!

If you've never made a patchwork quilt or garment, here's your chance to try some new techniques. Learn to use rotary cutting and strip-piecing methods to wrap up this project in an evening. And instructions are included for adding long chenille fringe to finish the look.


Materials
  • 1/3 yard (30.5cm) each of 12 45"- to 54"-wide (114.5cm to 137cm) coordinating fabrics. Note: Choose a variety of coordinating prints and solids in fabrics like crinkled and/or patterned velvet or velveteen, lightweight brocade, satin, wool, rayon challis and mediumweight silk. Start with one or two printed or patterned fabrics that work well together and build from there until you achieve the desired result.

  • 2 1/4 yards (2.1m) of 45"-wide (114.5cm) lining fabric

  • One skein of black chenille yarn

  • Fusible weft-insertion interfacing: enough for fusing to lightweight fabrics; two 1"x24 1/2" (2.5cmx62cm) strips

  • Matching thread

  • Rotary cutter, ruler and mat

  • 8 1/2"x11" (21.5cmx28cm) piece of sturdy cardboard

  • Awl, small eyelet punch or small, sharp knitting needle

  • Seam sealant

  • Crochet hook to fit through hole for fringe


Strip-Piecing Instructions

Note: Stitch all pieces right sides together in a 1/4" (6mm) seam. Because perfect patchwork relies on accurate seaming, you may want to invest in a presser foot with 1/4" (6mm) markings. If one isn't available for your machine, you can use the standard presser foot as a stitching guide, keeping the fabric raw edge even with the right-hand edge. Your seams may be slightly wider than 1/4" (6mm), making your shawl slightly smaller than the ample 24"x76 1/2" (61cmx195cm) finished size of the one shown.

  • Before creating the patchwork, follow the manufacturer's instructions to fuse interfacing to the lightweight fabric wrong sides for added body.

  • Working with one fabric at a time, fold each 1/4-yard (23cm) fabric cut in half with selvages matching and place it on a rotary cutting mat. Unless the fabric is heavy, fold it in half again so the first fold is aligned with the selvages. Align a crosswise mark on the rotary ruler with the selvages and, using the rotary cutter, evenly cut along the edge to square the end (Figure 1). Discard the scraps and leave each piece in place on the cutting mat.

 


Figure 1


 

 


Figure 2

Note: After squaring each fabric but before cutting the strips to be pieced, measure the fabrics to make sure each is at least 9" (23cm) wide. If not, use the widest possible width you can cut from all 12 pieces for the following step. For example, if 11 pieces are 10" (25.5cm) wide and one is 8 3/4" (22.5cm) wide, cut 8 3/4"-wide (22.5cm) strips from all 12 pieces instead of 9" (23cm) strips as instructed below.

  • Position the ruler with a crosswise line along the selvages and cut a 9"-wide (23cm) strip, making sure it's straight and exactly 9" (23cm) wide along the entire length (Figure 2).


  • Arrange the cut strips into pairs, trying not to put two printed or patterned fabrics together or two of the same or a similar color together. Once you're pleased with the combinations, stitch each pair. Don't press yet. If your fabrics tend to ravel, serge the seam raw edges together.

  • Place each pieced pair on the cutting mat with right sides still together and align a crosswise mark on the rotary ruler with the end of one long cut strip edge; make a clean cut to square the end. Then cut three 6 1/2"-wide (16.5cm) segments from the strip unit; set them aside. Repeat with the remaining pieced strips. You'll need at least 18 pieces, but it's better to cut a total of 22 or 24 so you have some flexibility when arranging the pieced pairs.

  • Working on the floor or a long work surface, open out each cut unit and arrange the patches in four rows of five two-patch segments. Because you'll only need nine patches in each row, you'll have one patch hanging off (Figure 3).

 


Figure 3



Figure 4

  • When you're happy with the arrangement, remove the extra patches from each row by undoing the stitching. Stitch the two-patch segments in each row together; press the seams in each row in the same direction, alternating the direction from row to row (Figure 4). Return each completed row to its correct position in the layout.


 
  • Pin the long rows together in pairs, matching the seams at each seam intersection; stitch. Press the seam in one direction.

  • Sew the rows together to complete the patchwork. Press the seams in the same direction.


 

 

Figure 5


Shawl Construction

  • Pink one long edge of each fusible interfacing strip. Fuse one strip to each shawl short end, positioning the pinked edge toward the shawl center. Be careful when fusing if some of the patchwork fabrics are delicate or heat-sensitive.

  • Cut the lining the length and width of the completed patchwork. Right sides together, pin the lining to the patchwork raw edges. Stitch around the edges, leaving an opening along one long edge for turning. Clip the corners, turn right side out and press. Slipstitch the opening closed.

  • Topstitch 1/4" (6mm) from the edges, using bobbin thread that matches the lining and changing the needle thread as needed to match the rectangles. To secure the stitching, begin and end each new thread color by setting the stitch length to zero and stitching in place for a few stitches.

  • To mark the fringe position, at each shawl short edge, place a pin 3/8" (9.5mm) in from the outer edges; place pins every 1 1/8" (3cm). If a pin falls on a seamline, move it slightly to the right or left. You should have 20 pins along each edge.
  • Use the awl to make holes at the pin marks just above the topstitching. Apply seam sealant to each hole cut edge; let them dry.

  • To make the fringe:

    • Tape one end of the chenille yarn to one cardboard short end; wrap the board with yarn until it's full.

    • Insert one scissor blade between the yarn and the cardboard at the lower edge (where you began with the taped yarn end); cut.

    • Separate the yarn pieces into 40 groups of three yarns. If necessary, wrap the cardboard again and cut until you have the required number. Fold each group in half.

    • To attach each yarn group, insert a crochet hook from the lining side through a hole in the shawl. Center the yarn group on the crochet hook tip.

    • Pull the hook and yarns through the hole, forming a small loop on the lining side. Catch the strands from the patchwork side on the crochet hook and pull them through the loop to form a knot against the shawl finished edge (Figure 5). As you complete the knot, adjust the individual yarn strands so they're approximately the same length.

    • After finishing the fringe at each shawl end, place the shawl on a smooth, flat surface and trim the fringe ends even.


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PRIMEDIA Inc.
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