Retail Details Patch Work--Sew News Library

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applying patches for fashion or for mending

Retail Details:
Patch Work

By Cindy Kacynski

Today's retail designers are taking patches out of the mending kit and into fashion's front lines. Possibilities for these decorative bits abound--from subtle, solid patches to elaborate, embellished wearable canvasses.

Patchy Perspective

Use patches as accessories, like buttons or pendants. They're meant to enhance a garment, not detract from it. And like accessories, patches can be overdone. As you contemplate adding patches to a garment, keep in mind the following:

Use patches on garments with simple lines made of solid fabric or subtle prints, letting the patches, rather than the garment, be the focal point.

Be sure patch fabric, thread and any add-ons (like beads or buttons) are care-compatible with the garment fabric.

Before securing the patches, try on the garment in front of a mirror. Experiment with patch placement to achieve the most attractive, flattering arrangement; pin, then sew them in place.

Block Art

Think of your patch fabric as a canvas for embellishment. Ready-to-wear designers are showing painted, embroidered, silk-screened, stamped, buttoned, serged, frayed and appliquéd patches. If you've been flirting with new techniques, but hesitate for fear of failure, patch embellishment provides a fail-safe opportunity to experiment. If something doesn't turn out, just toss it--not much lost!

Patch-ready. Check your fabric stash, or purchase remnants that can be cut and used for patches. Many printed fabrics have a patchwork look, with designs perfect for patches.

Tint time. Use fabric paint sticks, crayons or markers to add a unique painted or stenciled look to patches. If opting for stamped images, remember to use fabric ink with your regular rubber stamps. Be sure to heat-set any stamped or stenciled fabric, following the manufacturer's instructions. Before applying the patch to the garment, test-wash (or dry-clean) patch fabrics for colorfastness. Have some fun with these "coloring" options, testing and playing until you achieve the desired results. Remember to leave a seam allowance so the hem doesn't cut into the design.

Stitch interest. Use decorative stitches to make patches and/or apply them. Consider a stitch sampler, using various threads and stitches, or a tone-on-tone patch (use like-colored fabric and thread, and consistent decorative stitches). Use a tight zigzag stitch to appliqué small shapes onto the patches for additional interest. The same satin stitch can be used to make circles or lines on a patch.

Serge allure. The serger makes quick work of patches--in ways both functional and fun. Use a roll-edge stitch or narrow balanced stitch to create pintucks on patch fabric. Serge-finish patch edges, leaving a 1" to 2" thread chain tail intact. Knot the ends, allowing the tails to hang free. Serge off several yards of rolled-edge thread chain, then couch this "braided trim" to a patch.

Dimensional add-ons. Punctuate your patches (plain or embellished) with any of these little extras: buttons, ribbon, lace, cording, beads, charms, labels.

Take the Edge Off

Rolled edge. For the simplest hem, serge a rolled edge around the patch. Use matching or contrasting thread, opting for texturized nylon in the loopers for the best roll and thread coverage. Treat each corner (or the begin/end point) with seam sealant, then edgestitch the patch in place.

Standard hem. A turned hem will provide a neat finish, but is more time-consuming if mitering corners and clipping and notching curves. Use basting tape to hold the hem and zigzag the patch in place.

Frayed edge. If you're using loosely woven fabric, staystitch 1/4" to 1/2" inside the patch edge and fray the material. It's simple and offers an interesting finish.

Patch Attachments

Multiple small patch arrangements get lots of attention in ready-to-wear. The three-patch set is especially popular, with patches either matching or coordinating. Place them horizontally, vertically or off-center on a garment.

Fuse and stitch. Apply fusible web to the patch wrong side and fuse it to the garment, following the manufacturer's instructions. Edgestitch or zigzag around the patch to finish.

Decorative finish. Experiment with different decorative stitches (machine or hand) to edgestitch your patches in place.

Button-on. Make several sets of patches for a single garment, to coordinate with other parts of your wardrobe or to fit different moods, creating versatile clothing that changes in an instant. Stitch a buttonhole in a corner or in the center, add a button to the garment, then button on and off.


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