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Frayed Not
P A U L I N E   R I C H A R D S

No-fray and low-fray fabrics
offer unique opportunities
for decorative edge finishes.
Into the Fray
Cutting & Construction
The Cutting Edge
Sources


Twill & Tuck Elements 003 (modified)

When traditional stitching is eliminated in favor of securing fabrics with fusible adhesive, the result is a quick-to-finish garment. Tightly woven wool, wool melton, felted or boiled wool, leather and suede along with faux leather and suede all can be clipped, snipped, slashed or punched without fraying. Experiment with a variety of edge finishes until you find one that creates the look you want.

Into the Fray

SKILLS

  • Creating a decorative edge finish
  • Converting traditional seams to lapped seams


MATERIALS
Note: Materials given are for a misses' size small. Adjust yardage as necessary for other sizes. Yardage given allows extra for experimentation.

  • Twill & Tuck Elements Vest #003, V-neck sleeveless view (modified)
  • 1 yard 60"-wide, purple wool melton
  • 2/3 yard 60"-wide, fuchsia wool melton
  • 1/4 yard lining fabric for pockets
  • Rotary cutter with decorative blade
  • Clear ruler and cutting mat
  • One package 1/2"-wide Steam-A-Seam2® fusible web tape
  • 1/2 yard of 12"-wide Steam-A-Seam2 fusible web
  • One hook-and-eye fastener
  • Matching all-purpose thread

Cutting and Construction

Make any standard fitting adjustments to the pattern.

Eliminate the center back seam on the vest upper and lower back sections. With the upper and lower back sections on the fabric fold, cut them from the purple fabric. Cut the lower front and center front sections from the purple fabric. Cut the middle back section and center side front from the fuchsia fabric. Cut the pockets from the lining fabric.

Construct the pockets as shown in the pattern guidesheet.

Prepare the decorative trim by pressing a 2 1/2"x 18" fusible web strip to a fuchsia fabric scrap wrong side. Press a 1" x 18" wide strip of fusible web to a purple fabric scrap wrong side.

Using a straight rotary cutting blade, cut four 18" x 3/16" strips from the paper-backed purple fabric. Using a decorative rotary cutting blade, cut four 18" x 1/2" paper-backed fuchsia fabric strips.

Wrap trim to right or left.
Remove the protective paper from one purple fabric strip and one fuchsia fabric strip. Wrap the purple strip around the fuchsia strip in a spiral fashion with the purple fusible side facing the fuchsia right side. Note: The fusible adhesive is slightly tacky and the strip will stay in place.

Position the trim strip 1/2" below the pocket opening on the garment front right side and steam-press into place .
Create a mirror image trim strip for the opposite pocket and steam-press into place.

Place trim 1/2" below pocket opening.


Backstitch Method

    Jump, leaving threads intact.

Sew the front garment pieces together according to the pattern guidesheet instructions, except create an inseam buttonhole 1" from the center front when the right upper and right lower front sections are joined. Note: To create a 1" buttonhole, stitch the right upper and right lower front sections together, stopping 2" from the center front edge and backstitch. Leave the thread intact, raise the needle and presser foot and move 1" toward the center. Backstitch to secure and continue stitching the seam to the center front .

Sew the middle back sections together. Use the decorative rotary blade to trim the upper and middle back section lower edges only.

With upper and middle back sections wrong side up, place a 1/2"-wide fusible adhesive strip 1/2" inch from each lower decorative edge .

Position the upper back section lower edge over the middle back section upper edge, overlapping the edges 1". Steam-press the sections in place, then topstitch 5/8" from the decorative edge.
Apply 1/2"-wide fusible-web strips to wrong side lower edges.




Overlap upper back and middle back sections 1"; steam-press, then topstitch.
Position the middle back section lower edge over the lower back section upper edge, overlapping the edges 1". Steam-press the sections in place, then topstitch 5/8" from the decorative edge .

Cut a 33" x 3/4" fusible-backed fuchsia strip and a 44" x 3/16" fusible-backed purple strip. Trim each fuchsia strip long edge with the decorative rotary blade. Wrap the purple strip around the fuchsia strip and steam-press the finished trim over the stitching line that joins the upper back section to the middle back section.

Position 1/4"-wide strips of fusible-backed purple fabric over the stitching line that joins the middle back section to the lower back section and press into place.

Conventionally sew the garment shoulder and side seams and press the seam allowances open.

Use the decorative blade to cut along the 5/8" stitching line around all garment outer edges, including the armhole edges.

Using the decorative blade, cut 3/4"-wide fusible-backed purple fabric strips to embellish each armhole. Position the strip under the armhole edge, fusible side against the garment wrong side, allowing 3/8" to extend beyond the armhole edges. Steam-press the strip in place.

Using the decorative blade, cut 3/4"-wide fusible-backed fuchsia fabric strips to go around the neckline and down the center front edges.

Position the fabric strips fusible side against the garment front wrong side edges, allowing 3/8" to extend beyond the garment edge, and steam-press into place.

For the tie, fuse 1/2" x 15" strips of purple and fuchsia fabric together and trim the long edges with the decorative blade.

Stitch the tie to the garment left side at the pocket upper edge. Secure the loop half of the hook-and-loop fastener at the garment left center. Secure the hook to the garment right front wrong side, opposite the loop.

The Cutting Edge

Today's cutting aids offer many choices for creativity.
  • Leather punches are ultra-sharp, will cut cleanly through heavy fabric and are available in a variety of shapes and sizes.
  • Paper punches cut through lightweight fabric. Note: Use Tiger Tape™, an adhesive-backed tape marked at regular intervals, to accurately space your punched designs.
  • Decorative edge shears make trimming fabric easier than ever.
  • Decorative rotary cutters can be used for an easy decorative edge option.

Sources/Credits

Decorative edge scissors, rotary blades and punches provided by Fiskars®.

MacPhee Workshop contributed the 60"-wide, 100% wool melton for the featured vest.

Twill & Tuck, 106 North Washington, Ritzville, WA 99169, (509) 659-1913 carries the Elements Vest #003 pattern.


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