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Makeover Magic: Save that Sweater
P A U L I N E   R I C H A R D S

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Stitching the Pieced Sections Together
  • Follow the manufacturer's instructions to fuse the corresponding interfacing piece to each section 15. Stitch underarm seams. Pin each section 15 to each section 16, aligning the underarm seams and overlapping the edges 1/4". Stitch close to the overlapped edge . Set the sleeve sections aside.


    • Place the front and back interfacing pieces, adhesive side up, on a flat surface. Position section 7 and section 14 right side up on the corresponding interfacing pieces; follow the manufacturer's instructions to fuse in place.

    • Refer to Figure 1 to position the gabardine and knit sections in place on the upper portion of the interfacing pieces, overlapping the seam allowances. Position the faux suede pieces in place, overlapping the seam allowances of adjacent pieces. Adjust the placement of the knit and gabardine pieces if needed.

    • Remove the faux suede pieces and cover the remaining pieces with a Teflon® press cloth; press into place.

    • Back the garment fronts and back with tear-away stabilizer.

    • Zigzag the lapped edges together.

    • Place the faux suede sections back into position. Cover the sections with a cotton press cloth and very gently press into place. Edgestitch along the overlapped edges of each faux suede section.

    • Remove the protective paper from the prepared faux suede strips. For each of the remaining lapped seams on the front, back and sleeve pieces, cut a strip slightly longer than the seam. Center the strip over the seam and cover with a press cloth. Gently press the strip into place. Cut the ends even with the edges of each piece. Edgestitch the strips in place.

    • Stitch the front to the back at the shoulder seams and press the seam allowances open.

    • Follow the pattern guidesheet to apply the neckline/center front ribbing. Center a faux suede strip over the seamline and edgestitch in place.

    • Follow the pattern guidesheet to complete the jacket.

    Cutting & Sewing Sweater Knit Whether custom knit, purchased by the yard or recycled from a knit garment, sweater knit can add value, texture and interest to a project. Following are some tips to make your project look its best.
    • Handle cut sweater knits carefully. Avoid stretching or pulling during cutting or construction.

    • Cut seam allowances 3/4" wide when using conventional seam construction techniques, and serge the excess fabric off or trim after stitching. The wider seam allowance allows you to handle bulky knits without worrying about the knit loops unraveling.

    • Cut seam allowances 1/4" wide when using lapped construction.

    • When joining two pieces of sweater knit, secure a 1"-wide tear-away stabilizer strip behind the sections before moving them to the machine for stitching.

    • When working with loosely knit pieces, prevent possible runs by straight stitching 1/4" on each side of the cutting line before cutting the knit into sections.

    • For loose or bulky knits, apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side to stabilize and encourage them to perform more like woven fabrics.

    • Use fusible interfacing to permanently shape a knit section. Shape the fabric as desired, then fuse interfacing to the wrong side.

    • Many multicolor knits actually have a lovely "wrong" side that gives the appearance of a coordinating knit.

    • Try to utilize the original ribbing in both conventional and unusual ways.
    • Cut through ribbing at existing seams to preserve as much continuous length as possible and increase your design options.
    • When separating ribbing from a garment, include a 1/4" seam allowance.

    • To retain the grain when cutting a knit, cut along the knit ribs.

    • Simplify construction by utilizing existing sweater or dress sleeves as the sleeves and cuffs of the new garment.




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