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Pulling Teeth
C A R O L   Z E N T G R A F

A separating zipper
serves double duty
as a front closure and
decorative neckline finish
on this spring-time jacket.
Zip Tricks
Pattern Adjustments & Cutting
Construction
Sources


Jacket is McCall's Pattern 2879, Sewing with Nancy® (modified).
Zip Tricks Use a zipper to add color and interest to a neckline.

SKILLS
  • Converting a button closure to a zipper closure
  • Creative neckline finishing

MATERIALS
  • McCall's 2879 Sewing With Nancy®

  • Knit fabric in yardage indicated on pattern envelope

  • Interfacing in yardage indicated on pattern envelope

  • Notions indicated on pattern envelope (except buttons)

  • 27"-long separating sport zipper

  • Double-sided basting tape

  • Matching all-purpose thread

Pattern
Adjustments
& Cutting
  • Make any necessary standard fitting adjustments.

  • Redraw the jacket and facing center front edges to eliminate the overlap. On the jacket front, back and facing pieces, draw new lower edge cutting lines 2" below the short jacket lower edge cutting lines .


Redraw the center front and lower edges.


  • Follow the pattern guidesheet to cut the pieces from the knit fabric.

  • Mark the neckline center back.


Construction



Apply zipper tapes to front edges; trim at center back with tape ends abutting.
Note: Stitch all seams right sides together using a 5/8" seam allowance.

  • Follow the pattern guidesheet to stitch the front to the back and to interface and construct the facing. Serge- or zigzag-finish the un-notched facing edge and the jacket lower edge.

  • Separate the zipper. Right sides together and beginning 1 1/4" above the lower edge and ending at the neckline center back, use double-sided basting tape to apply a zipper tape to each center front edge. Trim excess zipper length at the center back, making certain the ends abut . Baste the zipper in place, using a zipper foot.

  • Right sides together with the zipper sandwiched between, stitch the facing to the front edges and neckline along the basting stitches. Turn the facing to the inside, press and tack in place.

  • Follow the pattern guidesheet to complete the jacket.


Resources


Glick Textiles contributed the 60"-wide, 50% polyester/50% cotton knit fabric for the featured jacket.


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