Fit For You--Choosing Skirts That Work With Your Figure

Sew News Magazine

		Fit for You: Choosing Skirts
		B A R B A R A W E I L A N D
		Depending on their design, skirts can accentuate or camouflage certain body areas. Choose a skirt style that flatters your shape and make it easier to achieve a comfortable and flattering fit.
		Measure First \| Get it Straight Circle Up \| Hems Up & Down Sewing Tips for Skirt Fit and Flattery \| Flattering Skirt Styles Resources


Measure First		Carefully take these measurements to choose the correct skirt pattern size: Measure your waistline. Pull the tape snug, then let out a breath--this is your real waistline measurement. It allows you to breathe, eat, bend over and sit down in your skirt. Measure your full hip. This is usually 7" to 9" below your natural waistline--the spot where you are fullest. If you have very full upper thighs, take the full hip measurement there. Measure around the fullest part of the tummy. For full skirt styles with lots of design ease through the hipline, use the waist measurement to choose a pattern size. Note: This doesn't apply to pleated styles--the fullness in these designs must be treated as if it doesn't exist during the fitting process so the pleats hang without straining or pulling in the finished garment. For more fitted styles, use the full hip measurement to choose a pattern size, or substitute the tummy measurement if it's larger than the hip measurement. This allows for enough room over the tummy and hips.


Get it Straight		When fit correctly, a straight skirt style is flattering to many figure types. Details make the difference in straight skirt fit for varying body types, and many of these same details translate to other skirt styles as well. Design ease is minimal in most straight skirt styles, but wearing ease is essential. You need a minimum of 2" of extra fabric at the full hip (or over the tummy). Do the pinch test: Pull all the excess fabric to one side at your fullest part. If you can't make at least a 1"-deep pinch, pick a larger pattern size (take very narrow seams in already-cut garments to get more room). Sizes 16 and up require at least 3" to 4" for comfortable wearing and sitting without exaggerated crease lines. Curvy figures with small waists in proportion to hips need darts to draw the waist in for a smooth fit. Small tucks or soft gathers can accomplish the same thing. Too much fullness drawn in with gathering is not attractive on this figure. Straight skirts on straight body types (not much waistline curve) generally don't require dart-fitting--room is required at the skirt upper edge to accommodate a thicker waist. Instead of darts, gently ease the waistline to the waistband for the most flattering fit. Vertical details in straight skirt styles, such as a center front seam or placket, or asymmetric, side front and side back seamlines or pleats, help break the expanse of fabric across wider hips to create a more slimming look (see Simplicity 9823, above) When a skirt design includes vertical pleat or placket details, don't use those seamlines for fitting purposes. In a straight skirt, fitting is done at the side seams.

A side front opening divides the body width

Wrap skirts offer the same visual distraction as those with vertical detailing. The side front opening draws the eye up and down and divides the body width . The critical fitting issue with wrap skirts is really about modesty; it's essential that the skirt front under layer be cut wide enough to cover you when moving and sitting. Consider extending the under layer almost to the side seam if the pattern under layer is a bit skimpy. Another option is to choose a mock-wrap pattern or adjust the pattern so the under layer is a full skirt front. Catch the right side seam of the skirt front and wrap-over layer in the side seam stitching. (You will need a center back zipper in order to get in out of the skirt.)

With any wrap style, remember there will be two layers of fabric over the tummy and hips; choose softer, flatter fabrics to keep bulk to a minimum.

If you prefer a straight skirt without any vertical detailing, achieve a more flattering, less boxy look by tapering the side seams; begin just below the fullest part of the hip and increase the taper to the hemline . Experiment with the amount of taper on the actual skirt to discover how much looks best-from 1/2" to 2" on each side seam at the hem foldline. Baste and try on to find the most flattering look. Note: Don't taper the bottom too much; it will draw attention to the hips and could make it difficult to walk.


Circle Up		In addition to standard waistbands, waistlines in current skirt patterns offer other choices. A faced waistline is a great choice for the short-waisted figure with a curvy shape as it creates the illusion of a longer upper body. This style is also good for the full- or low-busted figure for the same reason. (Straight body types will find this style more difficult to fit and less flattering.) Elasticized waistline casings, waistbands and low-riding waistlines without a waistband are also current choices. These waistline treatments make adjusting waistline fullness easy and are flattering choices for those with a flat derriere as well as those with a large derriere and thighs. Elasticized styles add the illusion of a fuller derriere on small ones and camouflage the fullness of larger ones, but only if there is enough fullness in the style through the hips and thighs so the fabric drapes softly over the fuller curves. The standard skirt waistband finishes to 1 1/4" wide in most patterns, unless there's a fashion detail at the waist. Adjust the waistband width for a more flattering and comfortable fit, depending on your figure. If you're short-waisted, make the waistband as narrow as you like--even 1/2" is appropriate. Like a faced waistline, a narrow band gives the illusion of a longer upper body. If you're long-waisted, cut the waistband wider than the pattern allows--try 2" wide--to create the illusion of a shorter upper body. Stay clear of the narrow bands and low-riding, faced waistlines.


Hems Up & Down		There are usually three best skirt lengths for your figure. Determine what they are with the following quick exercise. Stand in front of a full-length mirror in shoes with the average heel height you wear. Hold a piece of fabric in front of you, draped to the floor. Gradually raise the fabric to several different locations on your leg and notice that as you raise the hemline up and down, your leg will look thicker or thinner at different spots. The goal is to choose three lengths that are flattering to your leg and your overall proportions--near the knee, in the calf area, and around the ankle. No length should hit your leg at the fullest part of that area. A good, safe length for most is in the "shadow" of the knee, where the calf curves in toward the back of the knee. However, with fuller styles, lighter colors and softer fabrics, the skirt can be slightly longer or shorter and still be flattering. In narrow shapes, dark colors, and heavy fabrics, keep the length closer to the calf curve. Make note of the heel height and the varying lengths that are most flattering on your leg. If you wear a variety of heel heights, repeat to determine the best lengths with each one.


Sewing Tips for Skirt Fit and Flattery Slanted, trouser-style pockets.		Center front or center back zippers are slenderizing. If you must use a side zipper due to skirt detailing or for easier reaching, use an invisible zipper to eliminate added bulk. If you're full across the tummy, avoid side seam pockets. They'll pull open when you sit and the layers add more bulk across your fullest part. If you must have pockets, a slanted, trouser-style pocket will create the illusion of a smaller waist . Use stay tape on the slant pocket seam edge to prevent it from stretching.

Flattering Skirt Styles

Gored skirts help camouflage large derrieres.

To choose skirt styles appropriate for your figure, first identify your body characteristics. Consult the list below for some recommended details for varying shapes and sizes. You may discover that what is good for one of your features is not as flattering for another, so you'll need to balance your physical needs with what is currently in fashion.

Small Waist. Fitted waistlines are best; choose waistband (and belt) width based on whether you're short- or long-waisted.

Large Waist. Choose elasticized waistbands or smooth-front waistbands with elastic in back, but avoid too much fullness; have just enough for a comfortable fit over the hips and waist. Narrow waistline treatments minimize the focus at the waist. If you don't care for elastic bands, consider fitting the waistline 1" to 2" larger and threading elastic through as if it were a casing. There will be just a little give in the band and a lot more comfort.

Short Waist. Select a narrow waistband or a faced waistline to make the upper body look longer and more proportional to long legs. Skirts with yokes and dropped waistlines also achieve this effect. Avoid high-waisted styles and paper-bag-style, gathered waist treatments.

Long Waist. Choose wider waistbands and belts, paper-bag styles and high-rise waistlines, unless you're full- or low-busted. Mid-calf-length skirts help visually lengthen the lower body. Avoid mini skirts and styles that begin below the waistline.

Large Tummy. For the most comfortable fit, choose narrow, elasticized waistbands or those that are smooth in front and elasticized in back. Gored, wrap and A-line skirts are easier to fit, as are soft dirndl skirts without too much fullness through the waist and hips. Avoid pleats from the waistline (whether stitched down or not) and fly-front closures--they add bulk to the tummy.

Wide Hips. Choose skirt styles with slenderizing, lengthwise details--a side-front seam for example. Front or back zippers, and side pockets are also slimming details. Avoid bulky dirndls and tiered skirts, and bias-cut skirts that cling to curves.

Large Derriere and Waist. Elasticized waistlines with gentle fullness and softly gathered skirt styles will camouflage rather than accentuate your curves. Rather than pencil-straight skirts, steer toward gored

and A-line styles with a little more fullness for easier fitting and camouflage. Avoid skirts with flared trumpet styling or ruffles at the lower edge that only accentuate body width. Yokes and dropped waistlines are unflattering and difficult to fit. Handkerchief hems help draw the eye away from lower torso heaviness.

Flat Derriere. Back fullness and detailing such as yokes or pockets will camouflage the lack of curve in back. Gathered and elasticized waistlines, and full, bias-cut skirts also add some fullness.

Long Legs. You're a prime candidate for divided skirts, tiered skirts and those with hemline ruffles. Mid-calf and longer styles are best; mini skirts make legs look longer and proportions out of balance.

Short Legs. Short skirts visually lengthen legs and re-balance proportions; however, short, full styles only make legs look shorter. Other lengths can be worn if they're in correct proportion--try mid-calf styles with heels, and knee- and floor lengths. Steer toward slim, trim skirt styles and position skirt details close to the waistline to draw attention away from short legs.

Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, crafts and quilting author, editor and consultant. Her latest book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale Press Inc. She also is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.


Resources		This and other fitting challenges are covered in depth in the following books, available from your local fabric or book store or your local library. Altering Women's Ready-to-Wear by Mary Roehr; Mary Roehr Books & Video, 2000. Fabulous Fit by Judith Rasband; published by Fairchild Press, 1994. Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen; published by Rodale Press, 1998. Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; published by Palmer/Pletsch Inc., 1998. The Perfect Fit; published by Cy DeCosse Inc., 1987.


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