Sew News Magazine

Quick Tips for Successful Serging
August 2002

  Serger Smarts


Quick Tips for
Successful Serging

     Naomi   Baker

These tips make serging faster, less frustrating and fun!

Page 1 Basics Threading Threads
Page 2 Ripping Stitches Needles Knives and Tension
Page 3 Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4 Serging Corners & Curves


The serger has made sewing faster and more professionally finished than ever before. But sometimes the frustrations and fear of using the serger prevent us from taking advantage of the benefits it can offer. Use the following tips for faster and easier serging, many times eliminating challenges before they happen.

Basics

  Develop an organizational system for serger notions (tweezers, screwdrivers, extra feet, etc.) so they're within arm's reach when needed. Place tweezers on the thread-guide pole for easy access.

  Always have an extra knife, needles and a serger lamp bulb on hand. Murphy's serger law: These need to be replaced late at night when the stores are closed!

   When setting up the serger, pull the thread-guide pole to its highest position to avoid irregular stitching and prevent thread tangling.

   Clean the machine often. A cosmetic brush, which is softer and fuller than the brush included with the machine, quickly and easily removes lint and bits of thread. Remember to clean the lint that builds up between the knives.

Threading

  For the easiest threading, release the tension by raising the presser foot or pressing the tension release button (check the manual). Clip the threads just above the thread cones, replace the cones with new threads, and tie the new thread to the old thread in a secure overhand knot. Pull the looper threads through to the presser foot. Pull the needle thread(s) through and cut the knot just before the eye of the needle. Don't pull the knot through the needle. Thread the needle(s).

   Follow the threading order as described in the manual, which is usually loopers and then the needle(s).

   Before beginning to serge, bring the thread ends under and behind the presser foot to prevent jamming.

  After threading, give each thread a tug to make sure it's in the tension disc. If the stitches are not uniform, try this "tug" before resorting to rethreading the machine.

  For a brief change from a narrow to wide stitch or vice versa when only one needle is being used, simply move the threaded needle to the opposite needle position without rethreading. However, remember to adjust the correct tension disc.

Threads

  To prevent breakage, tension problems or machine malfunction, use high-quality thread. Thread is made by twisting filaments together. Weaker, low-quality thread has short filaments twisted together, resulting in a "hairier" look. Stronger thread is smoother in appearance.

  If thread is catching on the cone and causing uneven tension, throw the thread away.

  If using conventional thread spools, utilize the thread caps that came with the serger to prevent the thread from catching on the spool edge. Always place the thread caps notch side down.

  When using thread spools instead of cones, remove the cone holders so the threads don't get caught in the holder's grooves. For easy removal of the cone holders, use a drop of oil on the spool pin.

Page 1
Basics Threading Threads
Page 2
Ripping Stitches Needles Knives Tension
Page 3
Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4
Serging Corners & Curves


Naomi Baker is a freelance serging and sewing consultant specializing in quick and easy techniques. She is co-author with Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski of The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide from Krause Publications.

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