Sew News Magazine

Quick Tips for Successful Serging
August 2002

  Serger Smarts


Quick Tips for
Successful Serging

     Naomi   Baker

These tips make serging faster, less frustrating and fun!

Page 1
Basics Threading Threads
Page 2
Ripping Stitches Needles Knives Tension
Page 3
Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4
Serging Corners & Curves


Securing Seam Ends

  Use seam sealant on ends that won't be touching the skin. Allow the sealant to dry and clip the thread ends. For faster drying, press with an iron.

  When using a liquid seam sealant anywhere other than on a fabric edge, pour several drops of sealant on to a smooth surface. Apply the sealant to the fabric with a large pin or toothpick to prevent accidental staining. If a drop of sealant is dropped on the fabric, use a cotton swab soaked with rubbing alcohol to remove the sealant.

  For garment serging where the seam won't be crossed by another seam, serge off the end, leaving at least a 3" thread chain. Pull the thread chain out smooth, and knot next to the fabric. Clip the thread ends.

  When serging with decorative threads, thread the chain into a loop turner, double-eyed needle or tapestry needle and weave the chain through the loops on the serging wrong side.

Serging

  Test, test, test! Always test on scraps of the project fabric before starting to serge.

  To prevent puckering on wovens, use taut serging-without stretching the fabric, hold it taut with one hand in front of, and one hand behind, the presser foot.

  Always use both hands to guide the fabric.

  When beginning to serge, lift just the toe of the presser foot and slip the fabric underneath. This eliminates having to raise and lower the presser foot.

  When using a wide stitch, use both needles for a flatter, more durable stitch. Two needle threads hold the looper threads in place to prevent snagging.

  Using a longer stitch eliminates stretching, while a shorter stitch helps prevent puckering.

  Serging over pins can damage the knife and the machine, and could cause injury. If pinning fabric sections together, place the pins parallel to and about 1/2"inside the stitching line, or place them horizontally with the tip of the pin just to the left of the presser foot.

  When serging several pieces of a project, continuously serge pieces without stopping to cut the thread chain between pieces.

  For 5/8"-wide seam allowances, serge-finish the fabric edges first, just barely skimming the edge with the knives. Then stitch the seam on a conventional machine.

  When serging two fabric layers of uneven lengths, such as elastic and ribbing applications, sleeve insertion, or easing one seam to another, always serge with the longest piece underneath and adjust the differential feed to a plus setting. The feed dogs will ease the layers to fit.

  For quick hemming, especially on knits, simply serge the edge with a short, medium-width balanced stitch.

Page 1 Basics Threading Threads
Page 2 Ripping Stitches Needles Knives Tension
Page 3 Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4 Serging Corners & Curves


Naomi Baker is a freelance serging and sewing consultant specializing in quick and easy techniques. She is co-author with Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski of The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide from Krause Publications.



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