Sew News Magazine

Quick Tips for Successful Serging
August 2002

  Serger Smarts


Quick Tips for
Successful Serging

     Naomi   Baker

These tips make serging faster, less frustrating and fun!

Page 1
Basics Threading Threads
Page 2
Ripping Stitches Needles Knives Tension
Page 3
Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4
Serging Corners & Curves



Corners & Curves

  The quickest and easiest way to turn a corner is to serge off the edge, turn the fabric and serge the adjacent edge. If serging several pieces, continuously serge the lengthwise edges of all pieces and then the crosswise.

  For the squarest corner, angle in about 1/8" for the last 1" at the corner. On the adjoining edge, begin about 1/8" inside the stitching line and angle out to the stitching line 1" from the corner (1).
serging corners


  To turn an inside corner, pull the fabric straight when the knives are about 3/4" from the corner. With your left hand, push the fabric toward the presser foot to catch the fabric in the serging for a perfect corner (2).

serging an inside corner


  The serger only stitches in a straight line. When serging curves, pull the fabric into a straight line in front of the presser foot, watching the knives (not the presser foot) as you serge. Pull an outside curve to the right in front of the foot and an inside curve to the left (3).
serging inside snd outside curves diagram


  Purchase decorative threads with the same care as the project fabric. The easiest decorative threads to serge are those that are twisted. Texturized nylon thread (e.g., Wooly Nylon) fluffs up after serging for more coverage.

  If using threads that are slick and slide down the spool, place the spool on the table under the spool base to prevent the thread from catching on the machine. Or use a thread-feeding device or thread nets.

  For easy threading of decorative thread, form a 6" loop of serger or conventional thread and place the decorative thread through the loop. Thread the loop ends through the eye of the needle or looper and pull the decorative thread through.

  To thread decorative thread where a knot is not easily pulled through the tensions of sergers with jet-air threading, form a 20" to 30" loop. Place the decorative thread in the loop, pump the loop ends through the looper, and pull the new thread through.

  When serging a rolled edge, adjust the serger according to the serger manual. If fabric threads poke out through the stitching, especially on heavier fabrics, adjust to a wider stitch to allow more fabric to roll into the stitch.

  When doing a rolled edge, if the lower looper is tightened completely but still isn't tight enough, use texturized polyester or nylon thread in the lower looper to enhance tightening.

  Serge-gather by adjusting the differential feed to 2.0. To maximize gathering, adjust to the longest stitch and tighten the needle tension.

Page 1 Basics Threading Threads
Page 2 Ripping Stitches Needles Knives Tension
Page 3 Securing Seam Ends Serging
Page 4 Serging Corners & Curves


Naomi Baker is a freelance serging and sewing consultant specializing in quick and easy techniques. She is co-author with Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski of The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide from Krause Publications.


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