Serger Smarts Naomi Baker Working With Sweater Knits Sweater knits are one of the easiest fabrics to sew, even for a beginner. The knit's stretch and texture eliminate exact garment fitting and stitching techniques.

Fast and easy, professional results can be achieved when sewing sweater fabric with a serger. Utilizing the differential feed feature helps control the fabric stretch so the seams and edges resemble ready-to-wear garments. Fitting is simple because the stretch easily accommodates the body curves.

Selecting Sweater Knits

Sweater knit is usually sold by the yard, in panels or in kits.

• Sweater knit by the yard is usually the most stable sweater fabric. Purchase ribbing to finish the sweater edges.
  
  
• Individual sweater panels with an included ribbed band don't require hem finishing. Several panels are needed for a sweater: front, back and sleeves. Additional ribbing is needed to finish the neckline. Sweater panels come in varying widths and lengths so plan carefully when buying and cutting.
  
  
• Sweater kits usually include individual sweater panels or bodies with knit-on ribbing bands for one sweater. These usually come sized for men, women or children. Ribbing for the neckline is usually included.
  
  
• Consider purchasing an oversize sweater in good condition from a local thrift shop or rummage sale and cutting a new sweater from it.
  
  
• Select sweater knits that have good recovery or "memory" after being stretched. Test by stretching a small amount of fabric on the crosswise grain to see if it returns to its original dimensions. If the fabric doesn't have good recovery, the results will be less than professional. Many sweater fabrics have synthetic yarns blended with the natural fibers to add resiliency to the fabric.
  
  
• Ribbing is sold by the inch or yard. Most ribbing doesn't have a finished edge so it must be applied in a double layer. Before purchasing, check the ribbing elasticity. Spandex blend ribbing offers the most stretch control when used at the garment edges. Avoid 100% cotton ribbing, which tends to have poor recovery.
  
  
• Ribbed bands have one finished long edge and are appropriate for a single-layer application. If the band has less recovery when stretched, apply a double layer in the same manner as regular ribbing.
  
  
• Select ribbing compatible with the sweater's fiber content and weight.
  
  
• Salvage ribbing from old sweaters by cutting 1" above the upper edge to prevent raveling (1).
  
  
  
• Self-fabric can be used to finish the sweater edges but check for stretch and memory, especially if using it for a neckline and cuff finishing.

Page 1 Selecting Sweater Knits
Page 2 Patterns - Layout & Cutting
Page 3 Needles & Thread - Seaming
Page 4 Stabilizing Seams & Edges - Ribbing Finishes
Page 5 Other Hem Finishes
Page 6 A Variety Of Knits - Sources

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