Raising the Standard

S U E   D A N I E L S O N

Machine trapunto adds      an elegant, understated flair.

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Begin by tracing the collar outline onto tracing paper. Use removable tape to secure the pattern piece and tracing paper to the light box to prevent shifting. Removable tape allows you to easily reposition the pattern and tracing paper as needed. Transfer the floral design onto the traced collar pattern . Use a black, fine-tip, permanent marker to transfer the design. It's darker, bolder and shows up better than pencil. Rough-cut two pieces of the fashion fabric (a right and left collar piece) and two pieces of fusible interfacing larger than the actual collar pattern piece. Position the right collar fabric piece over the trapunto design on the light box and secure with removable tape. Using the water-soluble marking pen, transfer the trapunto design to the fabric right side. Remove the tape from the fabric and set the piece aside.

Reverse the trapunto design on the light box and resecure. Tape the left side collar piece over the reversed pattern, positioning it opposite the previous collar half. Transfer the design, then remove the tape from the fabric. Cut four batting pieces large enough to completely cover the trapunto design area (two for the right collar and two for the left). Place the marked collar pieces, right side up, over the batting layers and working from the center outward, carefully smooth the fabric over the batting. Secure all three layers with safety pins , avoiding the design area so you can freely sew around it.

• Using a size 11/75 embroidery needle, thread the machine with water-soluble thread and a lightweight neutral thread in the bobbin. Attach the darning foot and drop the feed dogs. Note: If you've not tried free-motion sewing before, practice on scrap pieces of sandwiched fabric and batting first to get a feel for the stitch flow. Position one collar-and-batting sandwich under the darning foot, batting side down. Bring the bobbin thread to the fabric right side and lower the darning foot. Hold both the bobbin thread and top thread as you begin stitching. Referring to the pattern, stitch the outer design lines, highlighted in red, skipping the inner "detail" stitching. Beginning at one end of the design, stitch down one side and up the other just inside the blue marking line . Remember, the water-soluble thread will be removed and "perfect" isn't a must at this time. Relax and consider this good practice for the topstitching. Repeat for the opposite collar piece.
  
  

Trim batting close to design area.

Using blunt-end scissors, carefully trim the excess batting close to the design stitching . Position the fusible interfacing against the collar piece with the interfacing fusible side against the batting. Secure the layers with pins, smoothing the fabric from the center to the outside edges. Note: Do not fuse the interfacing yet. Rethread the machine with the chosen surface thread (embroidery or decorative) and change to a size 16/100 needle. Note: For the featured jacket, we used two strands of machine embroidery thread as one.

• Position one collar piece under the darning foot, fabric side up. Bring the bobbin thread to the fabric right side. Lower the darning foot and hold both threads to begin stitching. The thread tails will be pulled to the back, knotted and clipped once the trapunto is completed. This stitching is permanent, so work slowly and stitch carefully. Stitch the entire design including all detail. In order to have a continuous stitching line, it's necessary to "backstitch" in some design areas, such as where the leaf meets the vine. Every line must be stitched at this time.
  
  
• At the end of the design, carefully stitch directly over three or four beginning stitches. Leave long thread tails. Pull the tails to the wrong side, knot and clip.
  
  
• Repeat the stitching for the opposite collar piece.
  
  
• Immerse the collar pieces in cool water, allowing the water-soluble thread to dissolve and markings to dissipate. Blot dry and then block the fabric on a towel or drying rack.
  
  
• When the collar pieces are completely dry, fuse the interfacing and fabric per manufacturer's instruction, pressing over a folded towel to support the trapunto. Overpressing will flatten the batting and destroy the dimensional effect.
  
  
• Recut the collar pieces using the tissue pattern, making sure the design is uniform on both sides. Use the light box for exact positioning, matching the traced floral design to the trapunto design on the fabric piece.
  
  
• Complete the jacket following the pattern guidesheet.
  

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