Needle
Know-how
L A U R I E B A K E R
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Needle Sizing
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Needles are sized according to two systems: European and American. Usually, both numbers are marked on the packaging, with the European number given first. At least one numbering system is used to mark the needle shank. Some brands also use a color-coding system in addition to the numbering system so the needle size can be easily identified. Needle sizes range from 60/8 (the finest) to 120/19 (the thickest). Use the chart below as a reference when converting from one system to the other. |
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| Needle Types |
Yesterday's basic rules for selecting a sewing machine needle still hold true: sharp point for woven fabrics, ballpoint for knits and universal point for both wovens and knits. However, today's options also include needles for specific types of fabrics, as well as features for working with some of the newer threads. Following are brief descriptions of the basic and specialty needles available to the home-sewer today.
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Basic Needles
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Ballpoint: These needles have a medium, slightly rounded tip that goes between the threads of a knit fabric, rather than piercing them like a sharp-point needle. They're available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.
Sharp: You may also see this type packaged under the name Microtex (Schmetz) and Standard Point (Dritz®). The needle has a sharp point to pierce the threads of woven fabrics. These needles are an especially good choice for heirloom sewing and when perfectly straight stitching is desired--such as for topstitching or making pintucks. Sharp-point needles are available in sizes 60/8 through 90/14. Universal: Most woven and knit fabrics can be sewn with a universal-point needle. The point is slightly rounded for use with knit fabrics, yet sharp enough to pierce woven fabrics. A universal needle can be used in all household sewing machines that accept a flat shank. They're available in sizes 60/8 through 120/19. (See figure 2) |
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Specialty Needle Types
Leather Needle 
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Denim/Jeans: Choose a denim/jeans needle for stitching denim, heavy faux leather or other densely woven fabrics. It's also suitable for stitching through multiple fabric layers. The extra-sharp point and stiff shank can pierce through the weave with less likelihood of breaking. Denim needles are available in sizes 70/10 through 110/18.
Leather: The leather needle's point is cut in a wedge so it easily penetrates leather, heavy faux leather, suede and other heavy, nonwoven fabrics.(See figure 3) Leather needles are available in sizes 80/12 through 110/18. Machine embroidery: This needle's specially designed scarf and large eye prevent shredding and breakage when sewing dense embroidery designs with rayon, metallic and other machine embroidery threads. They're available in sizes 75/11 and 90/14. Metallic: Constructed specifically for use with metallic threads, these needles feature a fine shaft and sharp point to eliminate thread breakage, an elongated eye to accommodate the thread and make threading easier, a large groove to prevent the delicate threads from shredding and a specially designed scarf to prevent skipped stitches. These needles also work well with monofilament threads. Metallic needles, also known as Metallica (Schmetz), Metafil (Lammertz) and Metallic Machine Embroidery (Madeira), are available in sizes 70/10 through 90/14. Quilting: This needle's point is tapered to successfully sew through thick layers and crossed seams when piecing a quilt and machine quilting the layers together. You can find quilting needles in sizes 75/11 and 90/14. Self-threading/Handicap: Use this needle if you have difficulty threading needles. A slot on one side allows the thread to slide into the eye of this general-purpose needle. Self-threading needles are available in sizes 80/12 and 90/14. Spring: Free-motion machine embroidery, quilting and monogramming are all easier with this unique needle. Designed with a spring around the needle, the spring acts like a flexible presser foot, lowering and raising as the needle enters the fabric. Spring needles are available in: universal, sizes 70/10 through 90/14; stretch, sizes 75/11 and 90/14; denim, size 100/16; machine embroidery, sizes 75/11 and 90/14; and quilting, sizes 75/11 and 90/14. Stretch: If you're sewing knit fabrics using a ballpoint needle but still experiencing skipped stitches, switch to a stretch needle. The deeper scarf prevents this problem on knits, including synthetic suedes. They're available in sizes 75/11 and 90/14. Topstitch: Topstitch needles have an extra-sharp point, an extra-large eye and a larger groove to accommodate topstitching thread or two strands of all-purpose thread. They're available in sizes 80/12 through 100/16. Wing/Hemstitch: The sides of this needle's shank are flared and look like wings. It's used to create decorative openwork stitching on tightly woven fabrics such as linen and fine batiste. Wing needles are available in sizes 100/16 and 120/19. |
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