Needle
Know-how
L A U R I E B A K E R
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| Twin & Triple Needle Types |
Twin needles are constructed with two shafts on a crossbar that extends from a single shank. Triple needles are constructed in the same manner with three shafts. These needles are especially nice to use for heirloom and decorative stitching, and anywhere else that may require multiple, uniform stitching rows. A sewing machine with zigzag capabilities and front-to-back threading is required.
Sizing for twin and triple needles is slightly different than other specialty needles. Two numbers are listed on the packaging; the first number represents the distance between the needles and the second number is the European needle size. For example, a double needle sized 1.6/80 would mean that the needles are 1.6 millimeters apart and a size 80 European (12 American). Twin needles come in a variety of types. They're currently available with two denim, two stretch, two embroidery or two metallic shafts. A twin hemstitch needle is also available with one wing and one universal shaft. Triple needles are available with three universal shafts only. |
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Selecting the Correct Needle
Spin needle around thread. 
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Thread, fabric and the needle all work together in stitch formation, so all must be considered before taking the first stitch. We've discussed selecting a
needle point based on the fabric type--woven or knit--but fabric weight, which will determine the needle size, is also a factor. The general rule for needle size is: the finer the fabric, the finer the needle. For example, when making a dress from a lightweight wool jersey, a 90/14 ballpoint needle, would be appropriate. But a heavier, woven wool coating may require a sharp-point needle, size 100/16 or 110/18. Just because both garments are made from a wool fiber doesn't mean you can use the same needle.
Next, factor in the thread chosen for the project. The needle descriptions given above are a good place to start. Several needles are made for specific threads and using one of them from the outset could reduce the number of test samples required. There isn't a specific needle type for every fabric/thread combination, but knowing some basic information will make it easier. If the eye of the needle is too small for the thread to pass through, the thread will shred. If the eye is too large, the holes created by the needle will be visible because the thread isn't heavy enough to fill them. The needle eye should be twice the size of the thread. To test the thread/needle compatibility, thread a 12" length of the desired thread through the needle you think is the correct size. Hold the thread vertically and fairly taut with the needle at the top of the thread. Spin the needle. If it slips down the thread, you're on the right track. If not, you need a larger needle (See figure 4) After weighing all the factors, stitch some samples on comparable fabric or scraps from the project fabric. Take the time to find the right fabric, thread and needle combination for the best results in your stitching ventures. |
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| Credits |
Laurie Baker is a free-lance writer, editor and designer for the sewing, quilting and crafting industries. The following companies provided needle samples: Euro-Notions, Dept. SN, Box 505, New Lenox, IL 60451. Prym-Dritz Corp., Dept. SN, Box 5028, Spartanburg, SC 29304. Singer Sewing Machine Co., Dept. SN, 4500 Singer Rd., Murfreesboro, TN 37129, phone (800) 474-6437, www.singerco.com. |
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