Serger Smarts--Chainstitch Embellishment--Sew News Library

		Serger Smarts: Chainstitch Embellishment
		N A O M I B A K E R
		Embellish a fleece jacket using a serger chainstitch and decorative thread.
		Chainstitch Basics Using the Chainstitch Decorative Serging Embellishing Fleece More Serger Embellishments for Fleece Credits/Sources

Chainstitch Basics

The chainstitch is most often found on a 5- or 8-thread serger. A coverstitch machine also does chainstitch, using only the chainstitch needle and looper.

The stitch upper side resembles a sewing machine straight stitch and the underside forms a looped stitch with the looper thread (See figure 1)
When using the chainstitch, the upper looper and knives are disengaged so the stitch may be used anywhere on the fabric without trimming as in regular serging. An accessory sewing table is inserted which covers the knives and loopers and forms a flat surface to the right of the presser foot.
Because of the serger's restricted space, chainstitch serging is limited to smaller garment pieces, such as collars, yokes and pockets.
The chainstitch is the most stable serger stitch, so it's usually not recommended for stretch fabrics.

Using the Chainstitch

Serge on and off fabric scraps for uniform stitching.

Avoid distorted stitches at the beginning and end of a stitching line by first serging on a fabric scrap, then onto the garment fabric, then onto a fabric scrap at the end, leaving the presser foot down. (See figure 2)
A chainstitch will unravel by simply tugging on the looper thread at the seam end. To prevent raveling, pull the fabric carefully to the left of the presser foot when ending the serging. The chain stops forming and the two threads will be separated for knotting. (See figure 3) Or pull the needle thread through the last loop of the looper thread and knot.

Pull fabric to left; clip and tie threads.

The only adjustable tension for the chainstitch is the needle tension. The tension will vary when using different decorative threads. Test for each thread used.

Varying the stitch length may help form a better stitch. Begin serging with a stitch length of at least 2.5 or longer.

Decorative Serging

Decorative threads may be used in either the needle or looper, or both. Novelty thread used in the needle will give decorative straight stitching. Choose a thread that can be threaded through the needle eye.

Thicker threads may be used in the looper. Using decorative thread in the looper will give a more pronounced topstitching embellishment. If using the looped side for decorative stitching, the serging is done from the fabric wrong side.

When using heavier thread in the looper, adjust the stitch length to 3.5.

Test with different thread types and weights. The chainstitch uses less thread than other decorative serger stitches.

For a stretchy chainstitch, use texturized nylon or polyester thread in the needle or looper.

Use the presser foot as a guide when serging straight lines. A quilt guide, available for some sergers, also can be used. For other motifs, draw the design on the fabric with a water-soluble pen, or mark with a pen that matches the needle thread color.

For random designs, avoid tight curves because they are more difficult to sew.

Embellish the desired garment piece(s) before construction.

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