Serger Smarts--Chainstitch Embellishment--Sew News Library

Serger Smarts:
Chainstitch Embellishment

N A O M I B A K E R

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Embellishing Fleece
More Serger Embellishments for Fleece
Credits/Sources

Embellishing Fleece

When serging on fleece, decrease the presser foot pressure and lengthen the stitch to avoid distortion. Adjust the differential feed to a plus setting to prevent stretching while embellishing or constructing the garment.

Use a stabilizer when randomly serging or if serging on the fabric crossgrain. Serging in a straight line on the lengthwise grain does not require stabilizing.

Draw the design onto fusible or plain tear-away stabilizer. Lightly iron or pin the stabilizer to the fabric wrong side and stitch.

More Serger Embellishments for Fleece

A. Alternate coverstitch and chainstitch.		A. Use a coverstitch with decorative thread in the coverstitch looper and matching thread in the needles. Serge from the fabric wrong side as with the chainstitch. Alternate rows of coverstitch with chainstitching.
B. Lettuce fleece on the bias.		B. Take advantage of the fabric stretch and lettuce the fleece. Serge on the fabric bias, stitching lines at least 2" apart for less fabric distortion. Use decorative thread in the upper looper and adjust the machine for a short, rolled-edge stitch. Adjust the differential feed to a minus setting to stretch the fabric while serging, and serge on the fabric fold.
C. Flatlock scallops.		C. Scallop the fabric with a narrow- to medium-width, short flatlock stitch. Use contrasting thread in the needle and upper looper, and matching thread in the lower looper. Texturized nylon or polyester threads work well for this stitch. Adjust for the flatlock stitch by loosening the needle tension and tightening the lower looper tension. Carefully serge along the fold and hold your finger against the upper looper thread above the tension disks rhythmically while serging to tighten the looper tension and form the scallops. Pull flat after serging.
D. Flatlock a raised narrow channel.		D. Sew a design with a narrow, raised flatlock stitch. With decorative thread in the upper looper and matching thread in the needle and lower looper, adjust the machine to a narrow, short- to medium-length flatlock and tighten the needle tension slightly. Serge the along fold and open flat. The tightened needle tension will give a raised, piping-like stitch.
E. Alternate upper and lower wide flatlock.		E. Embellish with a medium-length, wide flatlock stitch using contrasting thread in the needle and upper looper and matching thread in the lower looper. Serge from the right side so the loops will be visible, or from the wrong side so the ladder stitches will show. When serging, allow the stitches to hang off the folded edge to allow room for the stitches to lay flat when opened up. Alternate rows of loops and ladder stitches. Naomi Baker is a freelance serging and sewing consultant and is co-author with Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski of The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide by Krause Publications.


Credits/Sources		David Textiles contributed the 100% polyester fleece. For your nearest retailer carrying David Textiles fabric, call (800) 548-1818 or (323) 728-3231 and ask for customer service. YLI contributed the Monet lightweight yarn used in the chainstitch looper. Look for YLI threads at your local stores.


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