The Basics - Marking - Page 1

From our April 2004 Issue


	The Basics: Marking By Elizabeth Barry

Marking the pieces for your sewing project is an important--and actually timesaving --part of ensuring a successful project. Taking the time to do a good job of it will ensure the best possible results. As you become a more experienced sewer, you may choose shortcut techniques, but don't avoid this step altogether.

YOU'LL NOTICE that pattern tissues are printed with a variety of symbols and lines that help you lay out the tissue on grain, know where to place pockets, match seams and more. You must transfer some of this information to the fabric pieces to aid in the garment construction. There are a variety of tools and techniques used in transferring pattern markings onto fabric.

Choose a marking method according to the fabric you're using. For example, a mark that must be removed by water (water-soluble or dissolving pen) isn't appropriate for dry-clean-only fabric. Tools that make holes, such as a serrated tracing wheel, aren't advisable for fabrics like leather, vinyl or plastic-coated fabrics because the holes will be permanent and show on the finished project. In most cases a combination of marking techniques works best.

Always test your marking tool on a scrap of the actual project fabric. If the mark comes off easily with no damage to the fabric, it's fine to use on that fabric. Choose another option if the mark doesn't come off completely without marring the fabric.

Mark fabric pieces after you cut them out, but before moving them from the cutting table.

Mark most pattern details on the fabric wrong side. The few exceptions to this rule are placement markings for surface details such as pockets or tabs. Mark both fabric layers unless the marking is for a single detail, such as a single pocket on a shirt. For buttonholes, one side of the garment gets marked for buttonholes, the other for button placement.

If it's difficult to tell the fabric right side from the wrong side, place a small piece of low-tack tape on the wrong side of each project piece so it's easy to discern after the pattern tissue is removed.

snips & clips

Scissors can be a timesaving marking tool. Though any pair with sharp tips will suffice, consider buying scissors with blades and tips designed for close work such as embroidery.

For patterns with 5/8" seam allowances, indicate notches and darts by cutting 1/8" to 1/4" into the fabric directly through the notch point. Don't cut all the way to the stitching line; this will weaken the seam.

For single notches use one snip, for double notches use two, and so on (1). Notching (snipping V-shaped triangles out of the seam allowances) can be used to indicate centerlines, hemlines and foldlines as well as notches.

Check the seam allowance width. If the pattern has 1/4" seam allowances, snipping isn't an option; choose another marking method.

tracing wheel & paper

Tracing paper has a colored surface that transfers to fabric when you roll over it with a tracing wheel. It comes in a variety of colors and is either water-soluble or waxed.Water-soluble marks are easily removed with a damp cloth.

Avoid waxed tracing paper as the marks can be difficult to remove. If you must use them, mark only on the fabric wrong side. Choose the lightest color paper possible that's visible on the fabric in case the markings don't come out.The serrated or sawtooth wheel is most commonly used, but a smooth wheel is preferable on delicate fabrics.

Work on a self-healing cutting mat or a piece of cardboard to avoid damaging the table.

Practice before using a tracing wheel for the first time; learn how much pressure to apply by tracing lines on fabric scraps. Mark both fabric pieces at the same time whenever possible by placing folded tracing paper between the layers.Mark heavyweight fabrics individually.

Place the tracing paper colored side against the fabric wrong side, underneath the pattern tissue. Applying slight pressure, roll the tracing wheel along the lines using a ruler as a guide (2). Move the tracing paper after each mark to ensure coverage, and trace all of the necessary lines.

If you want to trace stitching lines for a multisize pattern (cutting lines, not stitching lines, are marked on multisize patterns), first mark the stitching lines on the tissue, then use that as your guide.

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Elizabeth Barry is an 18-year sewing veteran with hundreds of articles for sewing, quilting and craft publications to her credit. She lives in Pennsylvania with her husband and son.


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