Serger Secrets - Add to the fun with an easy coverstitch and lettuce edge. --Sew News Library

Sew News Magazine

From our June 2003 Issue


	Serger Smarts NAOMI BAKER Add to the fun with an easy coverstitch and lettuce edge.

Serge a little girl's knit outfit in just a few hours using coverstitch embellishing and hemming. Decoratively finish the shirt with lettuced edges.

MATERIALS

Kwik Sew 3055 or other T-shirt pattern for knits only

For the tube skirt, lightweight knit fabtic, such as cotton interlock or single knit-one skirt length plus 3"

For the shirt, knit fabric with at least 25% stretch in yardage noted on the pattern envelope

Waist measurement length of 1"-wide sew-through sport elastic

Three cones of serger thread to match the skirt fabric

Three cones of serger thread to match shirt fabric

One cone of heavier decorative contrasting thread (such as YLI's Jeans Stitch or textured-nylon or textured-polyester thread) and two cones of contrasting serger thread to match the decorative thread (red on the featured T-shirt)

Air- or water-soluble marking pen

Pattern Adjustments & Cutting

For the shirt, cut one front, one back and two sleeves.

For the shirt, cut a rectangle of fabric 2" wider than the hip measurement by the desired finished length plus 2 1/2". Cut the rectangle so the greatest stretch will go around the body (1).

diagram

On the shirt pattern, trim off the hem allowances on the sleeve and shirt front and back lower edges.

For the shirt, cut one front, one back and two sleeves.

Constructing the Skirt

Thread the serger with thread to match the skirt fabric. Adjust for a 3- or 4-thread, balanced, medium to wide stitch.

With right sides together serge the skirt vertical seam, forming a tube.

Cut elastic 1 1/2" less than the waist measurement. Lap the elastic ends 1/2" and sew them together. Quarter-mark the elastic and the skirt upper edge, with the skirt seam as one marking. On the skirt wrong side, match and pin the elastic markings to the skirt markings (2).

Quarter-mark, then pin elastic to skirt upper edge.

Quarter-mark, then pin elastic to skirt upper edge.

Adjust to a plus differential feed (1.5) with a long wide stitch. With the elastic on top, serge the elastic to the skirt upper edge, slightly stretching the elastic. This allows the differential feed to ease the fabric to the elastic and prevents the elastic from overstretching. Be careful not to cut the elastic as you serge.

Fold the skirt upper edge to the wrong side. On a conventional sewing machine, stitch along the elastic lower edge to secure, stretching the elastic to fit. On the skirt right side, stitch vertically across the elastic at each quarter mark to prevent the elastic from rolling (3).

Stitch across elastic to keep from rolling.

Stitch across elastic to keep from rolling.

Press up a 1 1/2" hem allowance on the skirt lower edge.

Adjust the serger for a wide coverstitch with matching serger thread in the left and right needle and chainstitch looper. Make adjustments according to the machine manual, then test the stitch on scrap fabric.

From the skirt right side, coverstitch the hem. Make sure the loop stitching on the underside is covering the hem raw edge (4). Overlap the beginning stitches by approximately 1/2" and stop. Raise the presser foot and carefully pull the skirt out of the machine to the left of the presser foot. Pull the needle threads to the skirt wrong side, knot and clip the ends.

Coverstitch hem, catching hem raw edge

Continued on Page 2


Get the inside scoop on what's happening at *Sew News* with the e-Update newsletter from *Sew News* editor Linda Griepentrog and *Sew News* senior editor Marla Stefanelli!

Now available for ordering online at


	Subscribe More Articles Past Issues