Serger Secrets - Add to the fun with an easy coverstitch and lettuce edge. --Sew News Library

Sew News Magazine

From our June 2003 Issue


	Serger Smarts NAOMI BAKER Add to the fun with an easy coverstitch and lettuce edge. Continued from Page 1

Constructing the Shirt

Rethread the serger with contrasting threads. Adjust the machine for a wide coverstitch with the decorative thread in the chain looper. Test on fabric scraps for the best tension and stitch length.

On the shirt front wrong side using an air- or water-soluble marking pen, lightly mark a horizontal line at the base of the armseyes. Mark two more lines, 1 1/4" above and below the first line (5).

Mark stitching guidelines.

Chain off approximately 2" of thread. Insert the shirt front under the presser foot with the wrong side facing up. Coverstitch exactly on the marked line leaving a 2" chain at the end. Tip: If the serger has a triple coverstitch, use the middle needleline marking on the presser foot as a stitching guide. Repeat for the remaining two lines, leaving a 2" thread chain on each end.

Rethread the serger with thread that matches the shirt fabric, and adjust for an overlock stitch. Serge the shoulder seams. Adjust to a slightly plus differential feed to prevent stretching, then serge around the neckline.

At the shirt front armseye edges, fold the coverstitch thread chain to the wrong side. Serge the sleeves to the shirt with the shirt on top. Be careful not to cut the coverstitch chain to prevent the coverstitching from pulling out (6).

Don't cut coverstltch thread chain while serging sleeve to shirt.

Don't cut coverstltch thread chain while serging sleeve to shirt.

Serge the side and underarm seams.

Using a slightly plus differential feed, serge-finish the neck edge.

At the neckline edge, fold 3/8" to the wrong side and, on a conventional sewing machine, topstitch the neckline.

Lettuce Edge Finishing

Adjust the serger for a short rolled edge. Thread with decorative contrasting thread in the upper looper and the matching serger thread in the needle and lower looper (red). Adjust to a wider stitch to prevent the cut edges from poking through the rolled edge.

On the shirt lower edge, begin approximately 1/2" before a side seam. Serge, slightly stretching just the fabric edge. End by overlapping the beginning stitching. After serging, stretch the serged edge for additional lettucing (7). Repeat on the sleeve lower edges.

Lettuce Edge Before stretching After stretching

Lettuce Edge Before stretching After stretching

Naomi Baker is a freelance serging and sewing consultant, specializing in technique research. She is co-author with Gail Brown and Cindy Kacynski of The Ultimate Serger Answer Guide by Krause Publications.


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