Sew News Magazine--Scissors and Shears

		High-tech:
		N A N C Y Z I E M A N
		Cutting-edge facts about Scissors & Shears
		Introduction What Makes A Pair of Scissors? Necessary Scissors Specialty Cutters Sharp Advice Scissor & Shear Care Buying Tips Sharp Enough? Credits

Introduction

As far back as the third century B.C., painstakingly crafted scissors were works of art. Two centuries later, Cleopatra of Egypt probably enjoyed the ultimate in cutting tools: bronze shears, inlaid with colored metals depicting Greek figures. By the 1500s, Spanish tailors and barbers were using scissors and the first modern cast-steel scissors were made in England in 1761.

When scissors were invented, they were the equivalent of "high-tech." Throughout history many inventions have come and gone but a few are still in use today performing the same tasks as their historical ancestors.

What makes a pair of scissors?

Scissors have blades less than 6" long and two finger holes the same size. Shears have one large hole for the fingers and a smaller one for the thumb. The blades on shears may be straight or bent, and more than 6" long. The fashion industry sometimes uses the word "trimmers" for shears.

People often think scissor blades must come together to make a cut. Actually only the tips should meet at a precise point with very little or no overlap. When holding the closed blades up to a light, a sliver of light should be visible between the blades. If the blades rub together they will soon become dull and/or rough. To cut, two things must work together: sharpness and alignment. If the blades are sharp but the alignment is off, the scissors will chew up the fabric. If the blades are aligned but dull they won't cut, or will pinch and possibly tear the fabric. Cutting won't be precise, and laboring with dull, poorly aligned blades is physically draining. Scissors should cut smooth and clean, right where you aim them. If they don't, check the blade position and sharpness--all the way to the points.

The best quality blades are made from high carbon cutlery steel. This industrial-strength metal holds an edge, is easy to sharpen and is practically indestructible. Because steel rusts and discolors, two coatings (chrome and nickel) are added for durability and smoothness. Single blade construction from one piece of metal, finger hole to tip, makes scissors stronger.

For lightness and comfort, some people prefer stainless-steel blades with a plastic or padded handle. Stainless steel is a tough metal and does not rust, but it's harder to sharpen. Like fabric, steel is manufactured in different qualities. A professional sharpener can tell the quality of the metal by the colored sparks that fly when sharpening scissors. Cheap metal feels soft and drags across the sharpening stone.

Buy the best scissors you can afford and treat them like a faithful friend. Test several brands and feel the difference between them.

Necessary Scissors

What type of scissors do you need? One of the best choices for sewing is an 8" knife-edge, bent dressmaker shear. The length is good for smooth cutting along pattern lines or long clean fabric cuts. Extremely sharp blades make cutting easier no matter what the fabric weight or how many layers. A bend of about 45° at the pivot point lets the entire lower blade glide along the cutting table. This adds stability and allows the fabric to lie flatter when cutting; with straight shears, the fabric will pull up and out of position.

For versatility, shears need a partner. Five-inch tailor's point scissors are ideal for trimming and precision cutting around curves or in small places. They're also heavy-duty enough for cutting multiple fabric layers. The sharp points are fine enough for lace, cutwork, appliqué, tailoring and hand needlework.

Machine embroiderers should own curved embroidery scissors at least 5" long. Look for two curves: one near the finger holes, high enough to go over an embroidery hoop, and one at the tip so the loose threads are visible. The tips should cut flush with the fabric.

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