High-tech:
		N A N C Y   Z I E M A N
		Cutting-edge facts about Scissors & Shears
		Introduction What Makes A Pair of Scissors? Necessary Scissors Specialty Cutters Sharp Advice Scissor & Shear Care Buying Tips Sharp Enough? Credits

Introduction		As far back as the third century B.C., painstakingly crafted scissors were works of art. Two centuries later, Cleopatra of Egypt probably enjoyed the ultimate in cutting tools: bronze shears, inlaid with colored metals depicting Greek figures. By the 1500s, Spanish tailors and barbers were using scissors and the first modern cast-steel scissors were made in England in 1761. When scissors were invented, they were the equivalent of "high-tech." Throughout history many inventions have come and gone but a few are still in use today performing the same tasks as their historical ancestors.

What makes a pair of scissors?		Scissors have blades less than 6" long and two finger holes the same size. Shears have one large hole for the fingers and a smaller one for the thumb. The blades on shears may be straight or bent, and more than 6" long. The fashion industry sometimes uses the word "trimmers" for shears. People often think scissor blades must come together to make a cut. Actually only the tips should meet at a precise point with very little or no overlap. When holding the closed blades up to a light, a sliver of light should be visible between the blades. If the blades rub together they will soon become dull and/or rough. To cut, two things must work together: sharpness and alignment. If the blades are sharp but the alignment is off, the scissors will chew up the fabric. If the blades are aligned but dull they won't cut, or will pinch and possibly tear the fabric. Cutting won't be precise, and laboring with dull, poorly aligned blades is physically draining. Scissors should cut smooth and clean, right where you aim them. If they don't, check the blade position and sharpness--all the way to the points. The best quality blades are made from high carbon cutlery steel. This industrial-strength metal holds an edge, is easy to sharpen and is practically indestructible. Because steel rusts and discolors, two coatings (chrome and nickel) are added for durability and smoothness. Single blade construction from one piece of metal, finger hole to tip, makes scissors stronger. For lightness and comfort, some people prefer stainless-steel blades with a plastic or padded handle. Stainless steel is a tough metal and does not rust, but it's harder to sharpen. Like fabric, steel is manufactured in different qualities. A professional sharpener can tell the quality of the metal by the colored sparks that fly when sharpening scissors. Cheap metal feels soft and drags across the sharpening stone. Buy the best scissors you can afford and treat them like a faithful friend. Test several brands and feel the difference between them.

Necessary Scissors		What type of scissors do you need? One of the best choices for sewing is an 8" knife-edge, bent dressmaker shear. The length is good for smooth cutting along pattern lines or long clean fabric cuts. Extremely sharp blades make cutting easier no matter what the fabric weight or how many layers. A bend of about 45° at the pivot point lets the entire lower blade glide along the cutting table. This adds stability and allows the fabric to lie flatter when cutting; with straight shears, the fabric will pull up and out of position. For versatility, shears need a partner. Five-inch tailor's point scissors are ideal for trimming and precision cutting around curves or in small places. They're also heavy-duty enough for cutting multiple fabric layers. The sharp points are fine enough for lace, cutwork, appliqué, tailoring and hand needlework.
		Machine embroiderers should own curved embroidery scissors at least 5" long. Look for two curves: one near the finger holes, high enough to go over an embroidery hoop, and one at the tip so the loose threads are visible. The tips should cut flush with the fabric.

Specialty Cutters		There are some cutting instruments designed for specific tasks that are worth the investment. These aren't must-haves, but they'll give you a professional edge (no pun intended). Micro-serrated Shears: Cutting beautiful rayon or silk fabric doesn't need to be a battle. The tiny teeth-like grippers on the lower blade hold fabric and keep it from slipping. Use micro-serrated shears for any fabric including knits, or for multiple layers. Sharpening isn't recommended because it files off the serrated teeth. Pinking Shears: Historically, sewers "pinked" seam edges to prevent woven fabrics from raveling. This isn't as common today, but pinking shears are good for reducing bulk in finished seams on nonwovens like knits and fleece, and cutting decorative edges. Pinking shears' cutting motion is stiffer than regular shears.

Appliqué Scissors: One blade of this scissor has an extended "bill" which lifts the fabric piece to be cut. This lets you trim clean and close without nicking the fabric underneath. These scissors are nice for working with laces, and regular or reverse appliqué. Also use them to grade seams or trim quilt batting.

Thread Nippers: Tie a ribbon through the nipper finger hole and hang them around your neck. Snip off stray threads while sewing for a tidy finished project.

Buttonhole Scissors: An adjusting screw can determine the buttonhole cut size. The fabric in front of the buttonhole gets bunched safely out of the way while only part of the blade makes the small (1/2" to 1 1/4") cut.

Electric Scissors: These lightweight, comfortable cutters are good for multiple layers, chenille projects and cutting patterns. They're not designed for detail work, but can cut many different fabric types, including suede and leather. Electric scissors are faster and easier on hands that tire easily or have difficulty with regular scissors. Practice will give you the same control as with manual scissors.

Sharp Advice		Can scissors be sharpened at home? Give them a touch-up sharpening using a good quality, hand-held sharpening stone when they feel dull. Then take the scissors in for a professional sharpening once or twice a year. What shouldn't I cut with my scissors or shears? Never cut wire, staples, pins or needles. One of the worst things to cut is cardboard; it dulls blades and can throw the scissors out of alignment. Can pinking shears be sharpened? Good quality pinking shears can be sharpened depending on the depth and angle of the "teeth." Shears made of soft, low quality metal don't sharpen successfully. For better cutting, have a professional sharpener adjust the blade angle for specific fabrics such as leather, suede, fake fur, heavy denim, upholstery fabric, fleece, intricate lace or wedding gown fabric. Bring a fabric sample along with you. Take care of your scissors and they'll be reliable and make working and creating much more enjoyable and productive.

Scissor & Shear Care		Manufacturers agree on the important steps to keep your cutting tools working smoothly and lasting a long time. Scissors and shears are not "multi-tasking" tools. Use fabric cutters for fabric, not for paper, plastic or metal. Cutting over pins will chew up the blades and destroy their alignment. Dropping scissors can knock the blades out of alignment, break off tips and nick cutting edges. Store scissors in a safe place after each use to avoid accidents. Gently wipe off the blades with a soft fabric scrap after each use to prevent lint and tiny particles from building up on the blades and clogging the screw-assembly pivot area. Scissors can be washed with soap and water if they're thoroughly dried and oiled. A drop of oil makes a big difference. Several times a year place a drop of sewing machine oil at the screw assembly between the blades. This reduces friction so cutting feels smoother. After oiling, wipe off the blades and make a few cuts on scrap fabric to remove any excess oil. Keep scissors in a safe, cool and dry place. In high-humidity areas, regularly wipe the blades with a light coating of oil to prevent rust or corrosion.

Buying Tips		Check for comfort when holding scissors, when opening and closing the blades, and when cutting over a period of time. Check the tips and blades. Cut a piece of fabric with the tip and along the blade, looking for a clean-cut edge. Try cutting single and multiple layers. Test several often-used fabrics. Cut into corners. Stitch a square corner on fabric, then cut diagonally into the corner looking for a neat cut close to the pivot point. Check the tension. When opening and closing the blades, they shouldn't feel too loose or too tight. Buy name brands. Look for a name you know and trust. Is there a manufacturer's warranty? Trustworthy manufacturers will back up their products.

Sharp Enough?		Here's a good at-home test for sharpness. Draw a five-point star about the size of a dime on sheer fabric. Start in the center and cut to the points. If the star edges are clean, the scissors are sharp enough. If the edges are jagged, it's time for sharpening.

Credits		Nancy Zieman, host of public television's Sewing With Nancy®, invites your questions and ideas. Write to her at Sew News, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Sewing With Nancy® is sponsored in part by Sew News. Gingher and Dritz scissors for photography were supplied by Nancy's Notions, (800) 833-0690, www.nancysnotions.com.

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