Sew News Magazine
Fit for You
BARBARA WEILAND


If you have binding or gaping at the underarm, you may need to fine-tune the armhole fit.
Continued from Page 1 - Armhole Depth

Armholes That Bind

Changes in posture that round the shoulders forward--as well as having a narrow frame across the chest--may cause just the front of the armholes to bind or cut into your arm. The stitching line for the armhole facing or set-in if sleeve needs to be adjusted. The adjustment is made on the garment, but not on the sleeve cap. Mark the change on the pattern and cut the new armhole shape before sewing (6).
alltering a binding armhole

You can remedy the problem in finished garments or garments in progress by removing the sleeve in front and setting it further into the armhole. The seam allowance will be wider on the garment, but not on the sleeve.
If you've made a forward-shoulder adjustment, "carving" out the armhole in this manner is often necessary. You may also discover that the garment is tight across the back. If so, release the sleeve in the back, and take a narrower seam in the garment--or mark the change on the pattern and cut accordingly (7).

striaghten the back armhole.


Page 1 - Armhole Depth | Page 2 - Armholes That Bind | Page 3 - Gaping Armhole


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