Beyond the guidesheet -- Learn how to adapt basic pant pattern instructions for better results.
Barbara Weiland
Vetern sewers know that pattern guidesheets do a good job of giving basic directions, but there's a bit more to sewing pants that look great and fit well. There simply isn't room on the guidesheet to include all the tricks and tips--use any or all of the tips included here (depending on the pant style) to adapt the basic instructions for better results.
Change the Sewing Order
For a better fit and faster pant sewing, assemble the pants in this order instead of the way presented in most guide-sheets. Use this order if you're fitting a pattern for the first time or using a pattern already adjusted for a perfect fit.
Complete the pockets following the guidesheet directions (see "Slant Pocket Pointers" on page 2).
Sew any darts or pleats. For a better fit on a curvy figure, reshape the dart stitching to match your body shape (1). Straight darts are a better fit on figures with flat tummies.
Sew the front crotch seam, beginning 1 1/2" from the raw edge and ending at the mark for the lower end of the zipper opening (2).
Insert the zipper. It's safe to do this now because you shouldn't need to do any fitting at the center front seam. For best results, use a 9" or longer zipper. Insert the zipper so the excess zipper is above the waisfline cut edge; cut it to the correct length after attaching the waistband or waistline facing.
Sew the front and back inseams together for each leg (3).
Complete the crotch seam (4).
With wrong sides together, pin the
pants together along the side seamlines
with the pins pointing down.
Try on the pants and adjust the fit as needed at the side seams. If more waistline room is needed, release darts and/or tucks. Don't adjust the waisfline fit at the center front or center back seam unless absolutely necessary When satisfied with the side seam fit, mark the new stitching lines by running the edge of tailor's chalk or the point of a marking pencil along the pins (5). Sew the side seams.
Try on the pants again. If you need more sitting room (if the pants are too tight in the back crotch), stitch 1/4" lower in the back crotch curve (6). Try on the pants; if needed, continue lowering the back crotch curve in 1/4" increments.
When the fit is comfortable, trim the crotch curve seam allowances to 1/4" between the front and back notches. Stitch again within the seam allowances, or serge or zigzag the raw edges. Don't eliminate this trimming step-removing excess fabric here makes the pants more comfortable, especially when sitting. To press the front and back seams open above the crotch curve, clip at an angle, ending at the stitching closest to the raw edge.
Get the inside scoop on what's happening at Sew News with the e-Update newsletter from Sew News editor Linda Griepentrog and Sew News senior editor Marla Stefanelli!
