Trouser-style slant pockets (in trousers or fitted pant styles) often gap (7).
Prevent this gap by stabilizing the bias-cut pocket edge on the pants front with a piece of twill or seam tape centered over the 5/8" seaniline. Measure the pattern piece along the seamline and cut a piece of tape 1/8" to 1/4" shorter. Center the tape over the seamline on the wrong side of the pants front and pin, easing the pants edge to the tape. Stitch ½"from the raw edge (8).
Complete the pocket following the pattern directions. Easing the bias pocket edge to the shorter tape makes it cup in and hug your body curve, eliminating the gap.
To further control a slant pocket, top-stitch the pocket edge to the underlying side panel for about 2" below the waistline (9). For plain-front or dart-fitted-pants, simply edgestitch rather than using two rows of stitching as shown for trousers.
To make sure the pocket lining is correctly stitched and won't pull, place the pant leg on a flat surface, pin the pocket edge in place and then lift the leg out of the way to pin the two pocket layers together as they lie. The raw edges may not match--that's okay. It's essential that the layers lie smooth instead (10).
Get the inside scoop on what's happening at Sew News with the e-Update newsletter from Sew News editor Linda Griepentrog and Sew News senior editor Marla Stefanelli!
