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Make A Splash

Laura Keith

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Construction
Before assembling the actual suit, make samples of any unfamiliar or special techniques indicated in the pattern instructions. Swimsuit fabric is expensive, and making test samples will help prevent having to remove serged or zigzag stitches, which can damage the fabric.

	Make A Splash Laura Keith

Use actual fabric swatches and set the machine with the recommended settings, thread and needles. Make note of any adjustments to reset the machine when making the suit.
Practice applying elastic to learn to control the fabric and elastic at the same time. Use a 3-step zigzag or 3-thread serger stitch to apply the elastic to the edge. Turn the elastic edge to the inside and topstitch with a double needle (4).

To add elastic to the leg opening, measure the pattern leg opening finished circumference (noting the front and back measurements). Subtract 2" and cut elastic this length. Mark the Front leg length on the elastic. The leg back elastic will be considerably shorter, pulling the suit to fit around the derriere. Divide the two sections of elastic in half and mark (5). Overlap ends 1/4" and zigzag securely.
dividing elastic for sewn in elastic

Divide the suit front and back leg openings in half and mark. Matching the elastic join to the crotch seam, pin the elastic to the leg, matching the markings to the side seam and halfmarks. Serge or zigzag the elastic to the swimsuit edge, stretching the elastic between the pins.
Turn the elastic to the inside and double-needle topstitch.

To keep slippery fabric under control, chine baste all seams before zigzag-or serging.
Sew a front lining so the seams are enclosed. With right sides together, layer back over the front. Place the lining top, wrong side up. Pin and sew the side and crotch seams through all layers (6). Turn the lining inside out to enclose seams and baste the lining loose edges to the suit front at the leg openings, neckline and armholes.

Sew just a crotch lining so the seams enclosed between the lining and the swimsuit fabric. Right sides together layer the back over the front matching crotch seam. Place the lining on top, wrong side up, and sew the seam through all layers (7). Flip the lining towards the front and baste the lining loose edges to the suit at the leg openings.

Swimsuit Care
Always wash out swimsuits after bathing in chlorine. Use lukewarm water and mild soap; hang to dry. If you must transport a wet suit, rinse it at the pool and wash as soon as convenient. Even top-quality fabric will deteriorate after a period of time, but regular rinsing will gthen its life span.

Laura Keith is a freelance apparel designer and teacher who lives in the Pacific Northwest. She has a degree in Apparel Design and has designed sportswear and swimsuits for a major manufacturer.


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