Sew News Magazine - Back to Basics

From our November 2002 Issue


	Back to Basics Notched Collars Barbara Weiland With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar.

The notched collar in a tailored jacket is often perceived as one of the most challenging parts of its construction. Don't let that misconception stop you from choosing this classic detail for your next tailoring project. Follow the steps below for a pucker-free notch with a collar that lies smoothly across the back neck, hides the neckline seam, and doesn't pull or roll up at the outer edges. Fusible interfacings make the task of adding support easier and faster than it would be with traditional tailoring methods.

Check the Pattern Pieces

The undercollar is traditionally cut on the bias in two pieces with a center back seam. This is essential to make the collar roll softly around your neck. If your pattern has a full pattern piece for the undercollar, fold it in half and crease at the center back, then open out and add a cutting line 5/8" from the crease. Cut along the line to create a new undercollar pattern and add a bias grain arrow for placement if the grainline arrow is missing (1)

notched collars - Create new undercollar pattern and add grainline

notched collars - Create new undercollar pattern and add grainline

Compare the undercollar pattern to the upper collar pattern. The undercollar pattern should be slightly smaller than the upper collar to allow for "turn of cloth." This means when the collar pieces are sewn together, trimmed and pressed, the seam will roll to the underside of the collar so it doesn't show. Also, the upper collar will have enough width at the center back to cover the neck seamline without pulling up at the center back and exposing the seam.

The upper section of the front facing that forms the lapel should also be slightly larger than the same area in the jacket to allow for turn of cloth.

Page 1 - Introduction | Page 2 - Shaping | Page 3 - Construction
Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions)

Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, crafts and quilting author, editor and consultant. Her latest book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale Press Inc. She also is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.

RESOURCES

Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch, Palmer/Pletsch Publishing.
Timeless Tailoring written and self-published by Starr Hashiguchi.
Tailoring (Singer Sewing Reference Library Series), published by Cy DeCosse.


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