Notched Collars
Barbara Weiland
With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar.
Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions)
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Back to Basics Notched Collars Barbara Weiland With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar. Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions) |
Cut two undercollars on the bias from fabric.
Cut two undercollar pieces on the bias from medium- to heavyweight fusible interfacing (weft-insertion interfacing is recommended). Transfer all markings to the right side of the interfacing pieces (the side without the fusible resin). Trim off the seam allowances at the center back on each interfacing piece.
For added support in the stand of the collar (the part that hugs the neck), cut an additional interfacing piece for the area between the neck seamline and the roll line. Cut it with the crosswise grain along the length of the piece.
Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each undercollar piece. Stitch the center back seam and trim it to 1/4". Position the remaining piece of interfacing on the interfaced side of the undercollar, with one edge along the roll line, and fuse in place (2).
Fold the undercollar along the roll line and pin to a tailor's ham. Steam to set the shape but don't crease the roll line. Allow to diy while you work on the remainder of the garment.
Cut and apply weft-insertion fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the jacket fronts after transferring the roll line and other construction marks to the right side of the interfacing.
Using a lighter weight fusible interfacing, cut a second piece of interfacing for the lapels only, ending at the roll line. Cut with the grain of the interfacing parallel to the roll line edge. Fuse in place. This layer weights the lapel so it will roll and lie against the upper chest.
Reinforce the roll line with stay or twill tape. Place the tape on the inside of the roll line and hand stitch firmly in place on both long edges. To make the roll line hug the body, use a length of tape 1/4" to 1/2" shorter than the roll line length and stretch it to fit when stitching.
Roll the lapel over a rolled hand towel and steam press (3). Allow to dry thoroughly to set the roll.
Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, crafts and quilting author, editor and consultant. Her latest book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale Press Inc. She also is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.
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