Sew News Magazine - Back to Basics

From our November 2002 Issue


	Back to Basics Notched Collars Barbara Weiland With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar. Page 1 - Introduction \| Page 2 - Shaping \| Page 3 - Construction Page 4 - Finishing \| Page 5 - Topstitching \| Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions)

A   Clapper or pounding block: Flatten seams, folds or edges by using this wooden block to force steam into the fabric. Steam the area, then hold the clapper down on the seam; on thicker fabrics, slap or lightly pound the seam.

B   Contoured pressing or tailor board: A wooden tool with many different shaped surfaces to press different areas on a garment; can also be used with a padded covering.

C   Point presser: Wooden tool used for pressing seams open or flat in points and hard-to-reach areas without affecting neighboring areas; often combined with a clapper.

D   Point turner: A tool with a pointed end used to push out small or sharp corners and a curved end to flatten seams.

E   Pressing, dressmaker's or tailor's ham: Ham-shaped surface used to press curved and shaped areas like darts, sleeve caps and collars. The wool-covered side retains steam for pressing wool fabrics, and the cotton-covered side is for high-temperature pressing.

Roll line: The line on a jacket where the lapel and collar turn to the outside. This line should be indicated on the undercollar and jacket front patterns.

F   Stay or twill tape: Stabilizes seams to prevent stretching and helps to shape seams to body curves.

G   Weft-insertion interfacing: Constructed with a non-stretch crosswise fiber inserted into a very fine web of knit fabric, making a flexible but stable interfacing.

Page 1 - Introduction | Page 2 - Shaping | Page 3 - Construction
Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions)

Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, crafts and quilting author, editor and consultant. Her latest book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale Press Inc. She also is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.

RESOURCES

Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch, Palmer/Pletsch Publishing.
Timeless Tailoring written and self-published by Starr Hashiguchi.
Tailoring (Singer Sewing Reference Library Series), published by Cy DeCosse.


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