Notched Collars
Barbara Weiland
With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar.
Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions)
|
Back to Basics Notched Collars Barbara Weiland With a few tricks "under your collar," you can stitch a professional-looking notched collar. Page 4 - Finishing | Page 5 - Topstitching | Page 6 - Word Wise (definitions) |
  |
Topstitching a notched collar adds visual detail and helps hold layers together to prevent rolling at the edges. It's particularly helpful in controlling thick, resilient or wiry fabrics that are difficult to press.
 Be sure that you're happy with all construction stitching and pressing before you begin topstitching. Top-press with a press cloth. Then steam and use a clapper to set the steam into the edges, holding the clapper down on the edges until they're dry and cool. The result should be smooth, relatively flat finished edges.
For more obvious topstitching, use a heavy-duty thread, machine quilting thread, buttonhole twist or two strands of sewing thread threaded as one through the machine and needle. Use regular thread in the bobbin. Use a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle when using a heavier thread or two strands of normal thread.
Increase the stitch length to 4- to 6mm, depending on the desired look. Test the stitch and thread combination on scraps--the same combination of fabrics and interfacings to be topstitched in the actual garment.The top tension may need to be loosened slightly.
Choose a topstitching design depending on the desired look. Two rows of stitching, one at the edge and another 1/4" from the edge, give a sporty appearance (1A). A single row 1/4" to 3/8" from the edge is another option (1B). Multiple rows of topstitching add a dressier look and help flatten the edges on wiry fabrics (1C). On wider lapels, topstitch as much as 3/4" to 1" from the edge (1D). When deciding the topstitching placement, consider the buttons. Buttons and buttonholes should sit inside the topstitching, never overlap it.
Topstitch from the side of the garment that will be visible. With a notched collar, that means breaking the stitching at the lapel roll line. To tie off the threads at this point, pull them to the underside of the lapel and to the underside of the faced edge. Tie each pair in a knot close to the garment surface. Thread a needle with each pair of thread ends and slip the needle between the fabric layers for an inch or two, coaxing the knot through the fashion fabric. Clip the threads close to the garment.
Stitch in the ditch of the seam when pivoting from the collar to the lapel. Pivot again at the notch and stitch down the desired width of the topstitching. Pivot again and continue along the lapel until you reach the lapel reversing point (2). |
 |
More Articles Past Issues |