Loop-Dee-Loop

By Barbara Weiland

• Empire waist dress with unadorned bodice, such as Simplicity 9597
  
• Fabric yardage, interfacing, shoulder pads and thread as indicated on the pattern envelope
  
• Four 5/8"-diameter buttons

• Follow the pattern cutting layout, except cut the bodice front open at the foldline (Figure 1) to create a right and left bodice front.
  
  
• For the placket underlay, cut one fabric strip 4 1/2" wide and 3" longer than the bodice center front edge. Apply fusible interfacing to the underlay.
  
  
• Underline the entire bodice and the placket underlay with a lightweight woven sew-in interfacing for added body and support, and to prevent the placket edges from shadowing through to the outside.
  

• For the bodice front facings, cut two fabric strips, each 2" wide and 3" longer than the bodice center front edge. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of each strip and set aside.
  
  
• For the loops, cut one 1 1/4"x18" fabric strip. Fold the strip in half with right sides together and stitch 1/4" from the long raw edges. Turn right side out and press. Cut the strip into four pieces, each 4 1/2" long.
  
  
• Anchor each strip short end to a padded surface, make a loop and press to a point (Figure 2).
  
  

• Mark the positions for the upper edge of each loop on the bodice fronts, with the first loop 2" below the right bodice front neckline. Alternate the remaining loops 1 1/2" apart and baste them into position (Figure 3). Note: Adjust the spacing as needed for different garment sizes.
  

• With right sides together and the excess length extending beyond the upper and lower bodice front edges, stitch the front facings in place with a 3/8"-wide seam allowance (Figure 4). Trim the seam allowance to 1/4", understitch, turn to the inside and press.
  

Figure 5

Trim overlay even with upper and lower bodice edges.

• With right sides together, stitch the placket underlay to the front facing raw edges, using a 3/8"-wide seam allowance. Serge- or zigzag-finish the raw edges. Trim the excess front facing and underlay even with the upper and lower bodice raw edges. Position the right and left front bodices 3/4" apart with the underlay beneath. Topstitch through all bodice layers 1" from each bodice front edge to secure the underlay (Figure 5).
  
  
• Complete the dress following the pattern guidesheet instructions.
  
  
• Press the skirt seam allowance toward the bodice. Topstitch 3/8" from the waist seamline and 3/8" from the bodice neckline.
  
  
• Sew the buttons in place on each bodice front opposite the loop closures.