Fit For You:
Fitting Yourself 
By Mary Roehr

• Set the stage for a successful fitting by getting to know your specific fitting problems and becoming an expert at doing the pattern alterations needed to correct them. You'll probably do similar alterations on most purchased patterns, and with practice you'll soon breeze through them automatically the first time you use a pattern. Remember, you don't have to learn every alteration that exists, just the ones that pertain to you and your body.
  
  
• Build in some fitting ease when you cut out garments. Cut 1" side seams in case a little extra is needed here or there. The excess can be trimmed later if it isn't needed.
  
  
• Taking measurements from clothes that fit can be very helpful when altering patterns. Sleeve lengths, sleeve circumferences (especially at the biceps), inseams and side seams on pants, shoulder width, crotch depth and the waist are all measurements that can be compared to the pattern before cutting them out.
  
  
• For the initial fitting, sew the garment shell only, leaving off the sleeves, collars, facings and other design details. With pants and skirts, it's best to baste on the waistbands to get an accurate idea of the crotch depth and the overall garment drape. Be sure to staystitch garment edges that might stretch, such as the neckline and armholes.
  

Figure 1




Figure 2

• Taking special care in preparing the pattern before cutting translates into easier and quicker fitting. Try to do the fitting when you're not stressed, hurried or under any unrealistic deadlines. Always wear correct undergarments and shoes. This makes a major difference in how garments fit.
  
  
• A three-way mirror is ideal for fitting yourself, but if you don't have the budget or the space for one, a good floor-length mirror works well. Keep a hand mirror within arm's reach for viewing the garment back.
  
  
• Wrist pin cushions are handy, as is tailors' chalk. Use 1 1/4"- to 1 1/2"-long glass or plastic head pins--they're easier to grasp and more efficient than normal short ones.
  
  
• If you're hemming skirts or dresses, skirt chalk markers that puff out chalk, and skirt clips similar to large clothes pins are necessities.
  
  
• Stand facing the mirror with your weight equally distributed on both feet. It's common to stand at attention in front of mirrors, so tell yourself to relax or put your hands on your shoulders and actually push down while trying to relax. Exhale if you're holding your breath. Your posture should be straight, but not rigid.
  
  
• Systematically fit by working from the top down. Begin with the neckline and go down through the shoulders, arms, bust, waist, hips, crotch and lower garment. Look for any areas that don't fall smoothly over your body.
  
  
• Identify these areas by the presence of sag lines or pull lines. Vertical or horizontal sag lines mean the garment is too big in that area and needs to be taken in (Figure 1). Pull lines mean the garment is too small and needs to be let out. Pull lines usually point directly to the problem (Figure 2).
  

• Alter areas on the upper garment first because they'll affect the fit below. For example, if the shoulders are too wide, they need to be narrowed before adjusting the sleeve hems. Or, if the pant waist is too tight, let it out before refitting the crotch and hems.
  
  
• When taking garments in, try on the garment and pin at the spot where the most fabric needs to be removed. Then remove the garment and repin the seamline, tapering to nothing above and below the pin mark (Figure 3). Try on the garment again and fine-tune your pin marks.

• Letting garments out is more difficult because you usually need to open the seams so the garment can hang properly on your body. To begin, follow the pull lines in each direction to determine where to open the seams. You'll be limited by the garment style and the amount of seam allowance available (this is why cutting 1" seams is advisable). Estimate how much needs to be let out, make a pin or chalk mark in the area, and remove the garment. Open the seams and pin or baste for a refit.
  
  
• An easy place to let out skirts and pants is at the waist. Simply unbutton and unzip the garment until it hangs smoothly and measure from the button center to the buttonhole edge to determine how much needs to be let out (Figure 4). Refer to "Loosen Up" (November '99 Sew News) for complete instructions on how to add a waistband extension.
  
  
• When fitting the back of a garment, stand squarely facing away from the mirror and use a hand mirror to view the back. Hold the mirror at eye level and turn your head toward it, trying not to twist the upper part of your body. Put a sticky note, pin or chalk mark in the center of the area that needs to be altered. Remove the garment, pin or open the seam accordingly and try it on again.
  
  
• The key to successful fitting is perseverance. Most people simply give up too soon. You may have to try on and take off the garment numerous times, but you can achieve the results you want, and each time will get easier!