Back To Basics: Staystitching--Sew News Library

Back To Basics: Staystitching

Back To Basics:
Staystitching
By Peggy Bendel

Staystitching--a row of simple machine straight stitches--freezes a fabric raw edge on-grain. Although staystitching takes a few extra minutes, it's a sign of quality workmanship and well worth the time investment.

Whether working with wovens or knits, staystitching prevents stretching, particularly along curves or angles where the fabric grain is stretchy and pliant. A row of staystitches encourages cut fabric to remain on-grain and retain the pattern's original size and fashion shaping, even when handled often during construction sewing and pressing. Staystitched fabrics are easier to sew without gaps and puckers, and the fit is better since the original shaping is preserved.

Figure 1
Staystitch just inside
garment seamline.

Make it Stay

Cut out the garment and transfer the pattern markings to the fabric.
Use thread that matches the fabric (staystitching is permanent).
Use a straight stitch set at a stitch length of 2.5 (10 to 12 stitches per inch). Balance the needle and bobbin tensions.
Staystitch on a single layer of fabric with one exception. When backing entire garment sections with underlining, baste or fuse the underlining to the fabric wrong side, then staystitch through both layers.
Staystitch a scant 1/8" from appropriate edges, within the seam allowance (Figure 1). If your sewing machine has an adjustable needle position, move the needle to the right needle position and staystitch as if sewing with a standard 5/8" seam allowance (remember to reset the needle position before sewing the garment seams).

Don't backstitch to secure staystitching rows. Extra reinforcement is unnecessary and the extra thread only adds bulk to the seams.

To prevent thin or slick fabrics from being pulled down into the throat plate, start staystitching 1/4" in from the raw edge and hold the bobbin and needle threads taut behind the presser foot. Sew from cut edge to cut edge, without pivoting at the corners (Figure 2). Note: Special directional sewing instructions for necklines and waistlines are given later in this article.

Figure 2
Don't pivot at corners or backstitch.

Figure 3
Staystitch with fabric grain.

Staystitch in the direction of the fabric grain. Find the grain direction by running your finger along the raw edge; the direction that disrupts the threads is "against the grain." The direction that keeps them smooth is "with the grain." Generally, this means stitching from the widest fabric point to the narrowest point--for example, from the hipline up to the skirt waist, from the neckline toward the armhole on a shoulder seam, and from the armhole down to the waist of a fitted blouse or jacket (Figure 3).

Grain direction can change along the raw edge of necklines (and the corresponding neckline facings) or along crosswise seams such as waistlines, depending upon the shape of the cut. For most necklines and fitted skirt or pants waistlines, staystitch from the shoulder or side seams toward the center front and back (Figure 4).

Figure 4
Staystitch from shoulders
to center front.

When to Stay

It's not necessary to staystitch every raw edge. Vulnerable areas include curved edges such as armholes, the underarm area of set-in sleeves (between the notches), necklines and neckline facings, the side front bust seam of princess style bodices and the hip area of close-fitting skirts and pants. When clipping curved seams, clip up to the staystitching without worrying about clipping too far.

Okay Not to Stay

When is it okay to skip staystitching? Generally straight-grain raw edges, such as those at center front and back seams or the side seams of boxy silhouettes, retain their original shape without staystitching.

Skip hemmed edges; in fact, it's better to keep these edges free to drape naturally so the fabric grain can "hang out" before marking and sewing the final hem.
Don't staystitch edges to be eased, such as set-in sleeve caps--it will be more difficult to crowd the fabric threads together when easing in the extra fullness if the area is staystitched.
Sometimes the fabric determines the degree of staystitching required. Firm, stable fabrics such as melton and gabardine hold the cut edge shape with minimal staystitching. Very loosely woven fabrics, fluid fabrics such as rayon challis and some hand-woven fabrics may need more staystitching to control stretching and raveling. Once you know why and how to staystitch, these judgment calls can be made with confidence.


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