
Pressing Thoughts |
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| M A R Y R O E H R | |
Experienced seamstresses know pressing is essential for a polished and professional look. |
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| Continued from Page 1 Pant Creases Prevent Press Marks Table Linens Cotton Shirts or Blouses Fusible Interfacing Saving Soles from Fusibles Mini Iron® Sources |
| Pant Creases | Pressure and moisture are the most important requirements for pressing creases in pants. Begin by placing the pants on an ironing board or pressing table. Fold the top leg back to expose the leg closest to the table. For fabrics that won't shine, use a spray bottle to dampen the crease area. Otherwise, dampen a press cloth and place it over the crease. Press down without sliding the iron back and forth, with the steam turned off, until the fabric is dry. Move the iron to a new position and repeat this procedure until you have pressed the entire crease. Turn the pants to the opposite side and repeat this procedure on the second crease. Let the pants cool and dry before hanging to help set the creases permanently. Firmly tapping the pressed area with a tailor's clapper will remove the heat and steam and set the crease. |
Prevent Press Marks |
A wooden Seam Stick aid prevents seam allowances from showing
through on the garment right side after pressing. When the fabric is placed right side
down on the wooden stick, the rounded surface of the wood allows the seam to be pressed
without smashing down the seam allowances |
| Table Linens | For a smooth, wrinkle-free finish on table linens (including 100% linen,
cotton or blends), first dampen the entire linen by sprinkling or spraying it lightly with
water. Roll it up and seal it in a plastic bag for several hours or overnight to allow the
moisture to absorb evenly into the fabric. Note: When storing for more than a few hours,
refrigerate it to prevent mold or mildew from forming. Iron with a dry iron using long
back and forth strokes until the fabric is completely dry. Folding a tablecloth two or
three times lengthwise and then rolling it on a cardboard tube to store will prevent
crosswise crease lines. |
| Cotton Shirts or Blouses | The same dampening technique as for table linens can be used to achieve a
smooth, crisp finish on cotton shirts or blouses. To iron these garments, always begin at
the top and work down (collar to yoke to sleeves to garment body) to prevent wrinkling as
you iron. Hang the garment and allow it to become thoroughly cool and dry before wearing
it. |
| Fusible Interfacing | Successfully applying fusible interfacing requires sufficient steam and
pressure. Note: Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for fusing
variations. First, preshrink the fusible by holding the iron above the fabric, fusible
side down, and shooting steam into it. To permanently fuse it, use a damp press cloth and
press down firmly (with steam) for ten seconds, without sliding the iron back and forth.
Move the iron to another position and repeat the process until the entire piece is fused.
Allow the fabric to cool and dry completely before moving it. A steam press also can be
used to fuse interfacing successfully. |
| Saving Soles from Fusibles | Use a Teflon pressing sheet and a dry iron to prevent fusible web build-up
on the iron's soleplate when fusing lace, appliqués or wearable art projects. The Teflon
will withstand the hottest iron heat. The sheet also can be used as a press cloth when
steam isn't necessary. As with fusing interfacing, it's best to hold the iron in one
place, rather than sliding it back and forth. |
| Mini Iron® Photo courtesy of Nancy's Notions |
Tired of burned fingers when pressing small areas or narrow hems? This new
iron has a miniature 7/8"x 1 3/8" soleplate, giving you complete control when
pressing seams open, fusing small pieces, turning up the narrowest hems or reaching into
corners. The iron also is ideal for applying fusible bias tape before stitching it in
place. |
| Sources | Mary Roehr, author of "Altering Women's Ready-to-Wear" and a
pressing video "Pressing to Perfection," runs a custom sewing business and
teaches tailoring, altering techniques and how to start a sewing business. To order pressing aids or to receive a free catalog, contact Mary Roehr Books & Video, Dept. SN, 500 Saddlerock Circle, Sedona, AZ 86336, (800) 291-6764 or (520) 282-4971, http://www.maryroehr.com. |
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