Sew News Magazine
Photos courtesy of
Mary Roehr Books & Video

Pressing
  Thoughts
M A R Y   R O E H R

Experienced seamstresses know
   pressing is essential
for a polished and professional look.

Continued from Page 1
Pant Creases
Prevent Press Marks
Table Linens
Cotton Shirts or Blouses
Fusible Interfacing
Saving Soles from Fusibles
Mini Iron®
Sources

Pant Creases Pressure and moisture are the most important requirements for pressing creases in pants. Begin by placing the pants on an ironing board or pressing table. Fold the top leg back to expose the leg closest to the table. For fabrics that won't shine, use a spray bottle to dampen the crease area. Otherwise, dampen a press cloth and place it over the crease. Press down without sliding the iron back and forth, with the steam turned off, until the fabric is dry. Move the iron to a new position and repeat this procedure until you have pressed the entire crease. Turn the pants to the opposite side and repeat this procedure on the second crease. Let the pants cool and dry before hanging to help set the creases permanently. Firmly tapping the pressed area with a tailor's clapper will remove the heat and steam and set the crease.

Prevent Press Marks

Steam Stick allows seams to be pressed without imprinting the right side.
A wooden Seam Stick™ aid prevents seam allowances from showing through on the garment right side after pressing. When the fabric is placed right side down on the wooden stick, the rounded surface of the wood allows the seam to be pressed without smashing down the seam allowances . To keep the fabric from shining when pressed directly next to the wood, a fabric sleeve can be slipped over the tool to give it a slight cushion.

Table Linens For a smooth, wrinkle-free finish on table linens (including 100% linen, cotton or blends), first dampen the entire linen by sprinkling or spraying it lightly with water. Roll it up and seal it in a plastic bag for several hours or overnight to allow the moisture to absorb evenly into the fabric. Note: When storing for more than a few hours, refrigerate it to prevent mold or mildew from forming. Iron with a dry iron using long back and forth strokes until the fabric is completely dry. Folding a tablecloth two or three times lengthwise and then rolling it on a cardboard tube to store will prevent crosswise crease lines.

Cotton Shirts or Blouses The same dampening technique as for table linens can be used to achieve a smooth, crisp finish on cotton shirts or blouses. To iron these garments, always begin at the top and work down (collar to yoke to sleeves to garment body) to prevent wrinkling as you iron. Hang the garment and allow it to become thoroughly cool and dry before wearing it.

Fusible Interfacing Successfully applying fusible interfacing requires sufficient steam and pressure. Note: Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for fusing variations. First, preshrink the fusible by holding the iron above the fabric, fusible side down, and shooting steam into it. To permanently fuse it, use a damp press cloth and press down firmly (with steam) for ten seconds, without sliding the iron back and forth. Move the iron to another position and repeat the process until the entire piece is fused. Allow the fabric to cool and dry completely before moving it. A steam press also can be used to fuse interfacing successfully.

Saving Soles from Fusibles Use a Teflon pressing sheet and a dry iron to prevent fusible web build-up on the iron's soleplate when fusing lace, appliqués or wearable art projects. The Teflon will withstand the hottest iron heat. The sheet also can be used as a press cloth when steam isn't necessary. As with fusing interfacing, it's best to hold the iron in one place, rather than sliding it back and forth.

Mini Iron®

Photo courtesy of Nancy's Notions
Tired of burned fingers when pressing small areas or narrow hems? This new iron has a miniature 7/8"x 1 3/8" soleplate, giving you complete control when pressing seams open, fusing small pieces, turning up the narrowest hems or reaching into corners. The iron also is ideal for applying fusible bias tape before stitching it in place.

Sources Mary Roehr, author of "Altering Women's Ready-to-Wear" and a pressing video "Pressing to Perfection," runs a custom sewing business and teaches tailoring, altering techniques and how to start a sewing business.

To order pressing aids or to receive a free catalog, contact Mary Roehr Books & Video, Dept. SN, 500 Saddlerock Circle, Sedona, AZ 86336, (800) 291-6764 or (520) 282-4971, http://www.maryroehr.com.


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