Sew News Magazine--Twist and Shout

Twist & Shout:
	H E L E N S A U N D E R S

Contined FromPage 1
Start Plaiting
Finishing Touches
Create A Masterpiece

Start Plaiting

Two strips are used for each row. Experiment with different fabric pairs to see how they work together. They can be carefully chosen or selected at random. Practice plaiting until the finished strip is neat and uniform.

Use a large piece of cardboard or a padded surface as the base, lay the marked base fabric on top and pin at the upper edge. Select two fabric strips, lay one over the other at one end and pin them to the center back line, aligning the strip ends with the base fabric upper edge.

Plait by repeatedly overlapping the strips, right over left, keeping the strips right side up. When they overlap, curves will form at the outside edges and should lie flat against the base fabric. At each overlap, push a pin through the fabric into the cardboard to secure, allowing for adjustments if needed .
Continue adding rows until the area is filled, standing back occasionally to see the overall effect. Replait a row if necessary, changing the print combination until you're satisfied.

Stitch each intersection; clip threads.

Prepare for machine stitching by removing the pins one at a time and re-pinning just through the bias strips and base fabric. Re-pin all intersections in this manner.

Tack the strips to the base fabric with a few short, narrow zigzag stitches at each overlap intersection. Note: Take the last few stitches in place (0 setting) to secure the stitching. Clip jump threads when a section is complete .

Finishing Touches

When plaiting strips have been applied to all the pattern pieces, complete the jacket following the pattern guidesheet. Bind the front and neck edges with 2 1/2"-wide bias strips to finish.

Garments with bias plaiting will fray slightly over time so use this technique on a garment that won't need frequent cleaning; hand-wash or dry-clean. Artwear can be fragile, but in this fiber artist's mind that isn't the primary concern. If the garment is damaged, there is usually a creative way to fix it.

Create a Masterpiece

Think of ways to adapt this technique and you'll be on your way to creating a unique jacket all your own.

Experiment with different fabric types.
Try different bias strip widths.
Select contrasting fabric pairs.
Make bias tubes to eliminate raw edges; press flat.
Try plaiting purchased trims.

Helen Saunders is a fiber artist and member of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PAAC). She taught home economics, but uses her artistic license to break the sewing rules. She is currently trying to reduce her fabric stash.


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