Sew News Magazine--Sewing for Plus-Size Kids

		Fit for You: Sewing for Plus-size Kids
		B A R B A R A W E I L A N D
		Sewing for a growing child can be a challenge.
		Introduction What's in a Size? Choose the Right Size Larger than the Pattern Pattern Adjustments Room to Grow Style Wins Out Resources

Introduction

Sewing for growing children can be a challenge, especially when they are battling weight issues. McCall's, Butterick and Simplicity are addressing the subject with a size range for plus-size girls. This is for the growing girl whose weight is above average for her height. Unfortunately, a similar size range for boys is not currently available. Because this category is new, pattern choices are limited and its success will depend on its popularity with sewers.

Plus-size pattern styles reflect current fashions, so girls can dress like their peers. Some children may turn up their noses at homemade clothes, but you can ease the response by involving them in the decision-making process and honoring their choices--even if it goes against your idea of fashion. Make suggestions and show them examples, but ultimately let them choose what they want. If possible, involve them in the sewing, too.

Don't cut out a garment until you're ready to sew it. If sewing is delayed, it's possible the garment won't fit when it's finished because kids grow so fast.

What's in a Size?

Examine the sizing chart measurements for girls 8 to 16 and girls' plus 8 1/2 to 16 1/2--you'll notice height and back-waist lengths are similar, but width measurements vary substantially.

The difference accommodates the areas children commonly carry extra weight: chest, waist and hip/abdomen.

Choose the Right Size

To choose a child's pattern size, consider the chest, waist and hip measurements shown in the chart below. Take snug measurements over underwear, a slip, swimsuit or leotard that doesn't constrict their flesh

Chest: It's best to choose patterns for tops and dresses using the chest measurement for a better shoulder and neck fit. Adjust the pattern for a thicker waist and fuller hips as needed. If measurements fall between sizes, there are two options: If a child is having an obvious growth spurt, choose the larger size so they'll have room to grow. If a growth spurt isn't expected, choose the smaller size and adjust the pattern circumference at the waist and hips by adding tissue at the side seams as needed.

Waist: Can't find the waistline? Tie a string around the child's middle and have her bend sideways. The string will settle at the natural waistline. Also ask her where she wants her waistline to be. If the child's tummy is fuller than the hips--not unusual in this size category--substitute the waist measurement for the hip measurement when choosing patterns for pants and skirts.

Hips: For pants and skirts, use the hip measurement unless the waist or tummy is larger than the hips.

Larger Than the Pattern?

When girls' plus sizing doesn't accommodate children and teens whose measurements surpass those on the sizing chart, begin with the largest girls or girls' plus pattern size and scale it up to fit. Some misses' sizes might fit them better, but finding the right style may be a problem. Fitting involves a time commitment, but may be the only solution to making current styles that fit. For an illustrated how-to of grading up a pattern size on a plus-size female figure, refer to pages 213 to 218 of Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto (see Resources at the end of this article). These directions easily adapt to tissue-fitting and pattern adjustments for children and teens.

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