Sew News Magazine--Sewing for Plus-Size Kids

	Fit for You: Sewing for Plus-size Kids
	B A R B A R A W E I L A N D
	Sewing for a growing child can be a challenge.
	Continued FromPage 1 Pattern Adjustments Room to Grow Style Wins Out Resources

Pattern Adjustments

Make length adjustments first. In tops and dresses, shorten or increase the back waist length, then adjust for less or more leg length. Check sleeve length, too. With younger children, consider incorporating "growing room" when cutting garments by adding tucks that can be released as the child grows taller (see Room to Grow).

For width adjustments choose one of the following:

Compare the child's measurements to the pattern, remembering they'll need added ease for comfortable movement. Add room as needed to increase the chest, waist and hip circumference.

Use the tissue-fitting method described in Fit for Real People. This works best with children who are willing to stand still while adjusting the tissue on their bodies.

Plus-size kids often require the same fitting adjustments as adults, and they're accomplished in the same manner. Sloping shoulders and full upper arms, tummies, hips and thighs are the most common. Since kids can spend hours at the computer, check for a high-round back and a forward shoulder. These adjustments have been covered in previous Sew News "Fit for You" columns. Fit for Real People has illustrated how-tos for adjusting adult-size patterns to fit teens. The teen figures shown are average to thin, but the fitting techniques apply to plus sizes too.

"Peg" a skirt for a figure with a full tummy and narrow hips.

Gradually taper the side seams below the tummy when sewing to eliminate a boxy look and create a visually slimming effect

Taper side seams below hip.

This alteration also can be used for full pant styles. Slightly taper the pant leg on the inseam from the knee down and on the outer seam from the hip down .

Taper full pant leg.

Room to Grow

Allow room for circumference increases by cutting and sewing slightly wider seam allowances. Accommodate lengthwise growth by adding lengthening room above the hemline in straight-cut pattern pieces for pants, skirts and pullover tops.

Draw a line across the pattern above the hem. Cut the front and back pattern pieces apart on this line and spread 3" .

Add room for growth.
Stitch the side seams and hem the lower edge. Then make three tucks, each 1/2" deep, for a total of 3" . Space them as desired and use a longer stitch for easier removal when desired. Press tucks toward the hem edge.

Sew three 1/2" tucks.
As the child grows taller, remove one or more tucks, releasing an inch of length for each one. If stitch marks or fading is apparent, consider adding a row of trim, machine embroidery or other decorative stitching for camouflage.

Make similar narrow tucks (1/4"-wide) at the sleeve lower edges to unify the garment design and allow extra length for growing arms. Note: With ruffles in fashion, extend skirt and pant lengths by adding a matching or contrasting ruffle.

Style Wins Out

Fit can be a touchy issue with kids. If fitted styles are in fashion, they may want to wear clothes tighter than is flattering on their bodies. Elasticized waistlines, raglan or set-in sleeves, A-line skirts, shifts and empire-waist dresses will always be easier to fit on the larger child. Pull-on pants and skirts with drawstring waists usually allow extra room. Before cutting, compare the actual waist and hip measurements to the pattern pieces to be sure.

Don't be surprised if plus-size girls turn thumbs down to styles that are easier to sew for their figures. If it's not in the stores, or if her peer group makes fun of the look, the clothes you sew probably won't be worn.

Close-fitting garments will take more adjustments for a comfortable fit. Ease some of the fitted garment strain by choosing fabrics with built-in stretch. Knits are obvious, and stretch wovens are now available in a variety of fibers that incorporate Lycra®, including carefree cottons and polyesters.

Sewing to fit the plus-size child can be a challenge because of little reference material and few available patterns. However, with a little time and patience, your child will be right in style.

Resources

Barbara Weiland is a nationally known sewing, crafts and quilting author, editor and consultant. Her latest book is Secrets for Successful Sewing, published by Rodale Press Inc. She also is a contributing author to Serger Secrets from the same publisher.

This and other fitting challenges are covered in depth in the following books, available from your local fabric or book store or your local library.

Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen; published by Rodale Press, 1998.

Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; published by Palmer/Pletsch, Inc., 1998.

Sewing for Plus Sizes by Barbara Deckert; published by Taunton Book & Video, 1999.


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