Wedding Gown Fit Tips--Sew News Library

Wedding Gown
Fit Tips

By Peggy Bendel

Organize your formal bridal gown sewing by scheduling at least three fittings with the bride. Mark the dates on a calendar, working backward from the wedding day, and strive to keep on schedule.

First Fitting

Sew a test bodice made from muslin or a similar trial fabric to check the fit and test your success in combining patterns. This is a must because bridal gowns have a very closely fitted bodice with minimal ease, leaving little margin for error. Schedule this fitting far enough in advance to allow you to complete most of the sewing by the second fitting.
Have the bride wear the same foundation garments and shoes she'll wear on her wedding day during the muslin bodice fitting. Note: If a strapless bra is required because of the gown style, a more practical option is sewing swimsuit-style bra cups into the bodice. Use safety pins to position the bra cups for this first fitting.
Take a preliminary waist-to-hem measurement to estimate the finished length (position a full-length gown hem 3/4" above the floor). Transfer any changes you make on the muslin bodice to the paper pattern. Use the finished length measurement to alter the skirt pattern length, allowing a few extra inches as a margin for adjustments. Then lay out and cut the various gown fabrics.

Second Fitting

Complete the bodice except for the back closure. Baste any applied trims in place. Complete the skirt to the same point, basting the hem in place (use silk thread on polyester fabrics to avoid imprints).
Baste the bodice to the skirt for the fitting. Again, have the bride wear the foundation garments and shoes she has chosen for her wedding day.
Fine-tune the bodice fit. Check the back closure to be sure the opening is large enough to allow the bride to step into the gown (easier than slipping it over her head) and pull it up to slip her arms through the sleeves. Reposition applied trims and rearrange the back details, if necessary.
Evaluate the skirt hem, making sure it hangs an even 3/4" from the floor all the way around. Note: On a bouffant gown, the waist-to-hem distance at center front and back will be shorter than the waist-to-hem distance at the sides.

Final Fitting

Schedule the third and final fitting close to the wedding day to accommodate any last-minute weight loss or gain, but far enough ahead of time to allow for sewing the finishing touches and completing the gown except for the back closure. This allows you access to the interior of the gown if any alterations are needed.


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