ANNA ZAPP

Copy your favorite pair of pants.

MATERIALS

• The pants to copy
• Muslin or light-colored solid fabric
• Pants pattern from major pattern company
• Marking pen
• Narrow tape

Do you have a favorite pair of pants that fit really well? Here's a way to copy them without taking them apart! An almost perfect pair of pants can also be used with a few changes. The fitting area to be most concerned with is from the waist to the knee, excluding the waistband. The pant length, leg and hem width, or waistband fit doesn't matter. It's easier to copy pants with a flat front, however pleated pants may also be used. Copy pants made from woven, non-stretch fabrics only.

Basic Concept

It's helpful to do this procedure with a sewing friend so you can fit each other. The idea is to draw a grid on the pants front and back pattern and a create a matching grid on the existing pants using the narrow tape. Measurements are taken at the pant grid lines and transferred to the corresponding pattern grid lines. The marks are then connected to form the new seamlines.
If necessary, pin-fit the existing pants you want to copy--leave the pins in when measuring the pants. The most attention should be given to the tummy, crotch (or rise) and hip area. Always check the waistband fit in a sitting position and preferably not on an empty stomach.

Pattern & Pant Grid Lines

Fold the front pattern in half, matching the inseam to the side seam to within a few inches below the crotch seam. Fold the back pattern in half matching the inseam to the side seam to just above the knee. Continue the centerline fold to the waistline on the front and back pattern pieces (1). Don't be concerned if the hemlines are uneven.



If copying pleated pants, pin the pleats closed while wearing them and treat them as flat-front pants. The pleats will be added after the master pattern is made.

On the ironing board, fold the pants so the inseam and the side seams of each leg are aligned and pin together. Press the resulting front and back crease lines, extending the crease to the waistline. This will determine the lengthwise center of the pants front and back. Note: If the crease lines have already been set by a dry cleaner and they're not centered, pin or place narrow tape along the correct center.

Find your true crotch depth and length by measuring the pants back.

Lay the pants on a table with the back side facing up, with the inseam visible.

Place a tape measure horizontally across the pants back from the crotch inseam to the side seam. Place a pin at the tape upper edge at the centerline to mark your crotch depth (2).



Measure from the waistline seam to the tape upper edge and record on the pattern centerline.

On the pattern, locate the crotch line that is closest to your crotch depth measurement. Adjust the pattern crotch line so it's the same depth as determined from the pants back by using the lines marked on the pattern for shortening or lengthening in the crotch area. Note: Refer to the pattern guidesheet for how to use the adjustment lines.

If the pattern back crotch line needed to be raised or lowered, adjust the front crotch the same amount.

Measure the pants crotch length from the inseam to the waistline and record on the pattern (See Figure 2). The pattern center back seam length will be adjusted later.

On the pattern front and back, draw horizontal lines 3", 6" and 9" down from the waist seamline; 4", 8", 12" and 16" down from the crotch seamline; and at the hemline (3). Note: The horizontal grid lines are perpendicular to the centerline. If necessary, add more grid lines to achieve a more precise shape.



Pin-mark or place tape at the horizontal grid lines on the pants at the same measurements from the waist and crotch seams (4).



Page 2
Measure Pants & Mark Pattern | Add Seam Allowances | Squaring the Pattern
Page 3
Construct the Muslin | Fitting The Muslin | Pleated Pants Pattern | The First Pair

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