| ANNA ZAPP |
Working from the pant centerlines at each horizontal grid line, measure across the pants. Record the measurements from the centerline to the seamlines on the corresponding pattern grid line. On the pattern, measure from the centerlines out the recorded amounts and mark the pattern (5).
The marks made on the pattern will designate the new seamlines. As you work down through each measurement, you will begin to see the shape of your pattern. Pay no attention to where your marks fall in relation to the original pattern seamlines. Seam allowances will be added later.
Measure the pant hemline width at the lower edge. Mark on the front and back pant pattern.
After all the measurements are transferred to the pattern, use a French curve to connect the marks for the new seamlines.
Measure the front and back crotch seam length on the pants and check it against the pattern. The pattern center back seam may not be as long as the pants back seam. Add any additional length on the pattern center back seamline at the waist.
If an area looks "out of whack" check the measurements again. If necessary simply draw the line where it makes the most sense.
1" to the side and inseams
5/8" to the center front and back seam
Note: Consider finishing the waistband like men's trousers so it can be adjusted easily at the center back. See "Men's Pants: The Inside Story," in the June '02 Sew News. If you choose to do so, the center back seam will be 5/8" wide at the crotch and 1 1/2"at the waist (6).
Lay the front pattern over the back pattern and pin the side seams together.
Lay a ruler straight across the front and back pattern pieces. Are the crotch seams at the same level (7)? If there is a difference, raise one to meet the other. If the difference is substantial, average the two. Raising the seamline is preferred because the crotch can always be lowered during fitting.
Check the side seams and make sure they're the same length. Adjust if necessary.