| ANNA ZAPP |
Use the centerline on the pattern front and back as the grainline. Note: This is especially important when making pleated pants. Cut the pattern from the muslin, marking all of the seam allowances with the marking pen.
Baste the seams, leaving the center back seam open about 8". Clip the crotch curve seam allowances.
Press the seams open and press the front and back leg creases. This will give the pants a more realistic fit.
Referring to the pants, mark the dart placement or transfer the original pattern darts to the muslin. Pin the darts closed.
Pin the center back seam closed.
Tie a string or tape measure around your waist. Adjust the pants and mark where the waistband seam will be.
When fitting the crotch, keep in mind that the back crotch seam will stretch because it's on the bias. If the fit is close at first, it will stretch after one wearing. It may be necessary to alter the pattern after wearing the pants.
If the fit is satisfactory, reinforce the center back seam of the actual pants with twill tape to prevent further stretching.
Check the pant fit and alter any areas of concern by pinning out the excess or letting out the seams if more room is needed. Mark any additional changes on the pattern.
To add pleats to the pattern, first pin the darts closed. Copy the pattern onto pattern tracing cloth. Determine the pleat depth-the pleat nearest the pants center front is the deeper pleat, usually 1 1/2" to 2", and the second pleat is about 1/4" to 1/2" smaller-check a pair of pants you like.
Cut the copied pattern on the centerline from the waist to the hemline. Spread the pattern apart two times the desired pleat depth. For a 1 1/2"-deep pleat, spread the pattern 3" at the waist.
Mark the pattern for the smaller pleat between the centerline and the side seam and cut into the pattern about halfway down the pant length. Spread the pattern at the waist two times the desired pleat depth (8).
Fill in the openings with pattern tracing cloth and fold the pleats closed; pin.
Lay the new pattern over the master pattern. Make sure the patterns match with the pleats and darts closed. Revise the pleated pattern if necessary
Using the master pattern, draw an approximate waistline onto a piece of pattern tracing cloth larger than the front pant pattern. Decide the pleat depth and placement. Fold the pleats into the pattern tracing cloth and pin closed.
Pin the darts closed on the master pant pattern and lay it over the pleated pattern tracing cloth, situating the pleats in the desired location and aligning the waistlines (9).
Trace around the master pattern to make the new pleated-front pattern.
Anna Zapp has owned a successful couture sewing business since 1971. She has designed and made garments for many people in the entertainment business. She is a co-inventor of the Tilt'able and the SureFoot System. Currently she writes sewing instructions, teaches tailoring and designs embroidery for Cactus Punch and Amazing Designs.
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