Practice different stitch combinations on a flat fabric piece before sewing on the pleated fabric. Create a design by stitching down the center of the fabric strip and then working out to both sides.
The most effective stitches are tri-motion straight, zigzag and decorative stitches such as cross and feather stitches. These stitches are repetitive and show up better on the pleated fabric. Experiment with the stitches and adjust the stitch length and width to get the best result (A).An ordinary straight stitch doesn't show up well on the pleated fabric. However, a straight stitch sewn in a thread color to match the fabric is an effective way to do a machine version of the "back smocking" done in hand smocking. Back smocking subtly holds the fabric pleats together -- use this primarily with picture smocking (see "Embroidery Embellishment" below).
Some machines have built-in smocking stitches while other machinesmay allow groups of stitches to be programmed into the memory to imitate the cable and wave stitches of hand smocking (B).
When satisfied with your stitch combination, position the pleated fabric under the presser foot so the pleats run horizontally. Sew the decorative stitching across the pleats from one end of the pleated fabric to the other, using the pleating threads as guidelines. Stitch along the threads or in between them. Note: The pleating threads will be removed once the decorative stitches are sewn, and they'll be easier to remove if the stitching isn't done directly on top of them. Sew each row of stitching in the same direction as the first. Embroidery Embellishment
If you have access to an embroidery machine, add an additional embellishment by embroidering a motif over the decorative or straight smocking stitches. In hand smocking, this is called "picture smocking" Choose an embroidery motif that complements the print in a fabric or create a theme of designs. Consider embroidering little trains or sailboats on overalls, or teddy bears or bunnies on the yoke of a dress.
If possible, hoop the pleated fabric. if it's too bulky for the hoop, hoop a piece of stabilizer and use spray adhesive to secure the pleated fabric to the stabilizer. Use your machine's in-hoop basting option (if available) to secure the fabric to the stabilizer.
Select a relatively dense embroidery design so the stitches will cover the pleats well. Take care when selecting thread colors because the smocking stitches will shadow through if they're darker than the embroidery threads.
To keep the embroidery stitches from sinking into the pleats, add water-soluble stabilizer as a topper over the pleats.
All embroidery designs fromHusqvama Viking, Disk #44.
For more information on embroiderycombined with smocking, see"Smock Talk" in the July/August issue ofCreative Machine Embroidery magazine.To subscribe, call (800) 677-5212 or(386) 447-6318, or visitwww.cmemag.com.