Deb Yedziniak is a designer, Husquavarna Viking educator, and Martha Pullen licensed teacher. She travels and teaches throughout out U.S. and Europe, and has published a new book on machine smocking.
Making the Dress Deborah Yedziniak
Materials
Vogue 7435
Print cotton fabric for dress in yardage indicated on pattern
1/4 yard of coordinating solid fabric for smocking insert (optional)
Notions indicated on pattern
2 1/2 yards of ready-made mini piping
1/4 yard of fusible, lightweight woven interfacing
Decorative thread for smocking stitches
Select a yoke dress pattern meant for smocking. We used Vogue 7435, View B, and eliminated the collar and sleeves to make a sundress. The featured pattern has smocking across the upper edge of the skirt front piece -- if desired, you can simply follow the pattern directions to pleat the skirt front upper edge. However, because the smocking stitches would be lost in the fabric's bright flower pattern, the featured dress front was modified by adding a separate smocked insert in a matching solid-colored fabric.
Because it's easier to begin pleating at the straight edge of the fabric rather than at an odd-shaped edge, cut out the skirt front (or the insert) without cutting out the armhole curve. Simply mark the curve with a disappearing-ink pen and cut it out after the smocking is done. Cut out the rest of the dress according to the pattern guidesheet, eliminating the collar and sleeves.
For the added insert: The featured pattern has 10 to 11 rows of pleating in the smocked area. The first and last pleating rows are used to keep the pleats in position at the seam allowance, so add an additional pleating row for a total of 12. The decorative stitching is done from row two to 11.
The fabric strip for the insert needs to be wider than the pleated area at the top of the skirt to allow for an added seam allowance at the lower edge. The extra width also makes pleating easier. Cut a fabric strip 1 5/8" wider than the smocked area on the pattern (for the featured pattern, a 5"x45" strip was used).
Because the smocking is done as an insert rather than at the top of the skirt front piece, the skirt length will need to be shortened. For the most accuracy, cut the skirt front according to the pattern and trim away the skirt lower edge as needed after sewing the yokes to the skirts.
Pleat the skirt front or insert and expand it to fit the pleating guide. For the smocked insert, extend the pleated fabric the full length of the smocking guide, concentrating the pleats between the two markings indicated on the pattern piece and keeping the fabric flat at both short ends to eliminate bulk in the side seams.
Stabilize the pleats with lightweight fusible interfacing. Using the pattern piece, re-mark the armhole cutting line on the pleated fabric with a disappearing-ink pen. Decoratively stitch ten smocking rows. Staystitch 1/4" to 1/2" in from the armhole cutting line, then cut away the fabric at the cutting line.
Follow the pattern guidesheet to construct the dress. For the version with an added insert, baste mini piping to the lower edge of the insert, matching the raw edges. Then attach the smocked insert to the skirt front before attaching the yokes to the skirt front and back. Starting at the yokes, pin the dress front to the dress back at the side seams; trim the skirt front length as needed.
Eliminate the collar and finish the neckline edge with the yoke lining according to the pattern guidesheet. If desired, baste piping along the neckline before attaching the yoke lining.
Instead of sleeves, finish the armhole with a narrow facing. Cut a 1 1/2"-wide bias fabric strip with a length equal to the finished armhole circumference plus 1". Turn under one short end of the strip 1/4". Starting with the turned-under edge, pin the strip to the armhole with right sides together and the raw edges matching; stitch with a 5/8" seam. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4". Press the seam allowances toward the strip and understitch the seam allowances to the strip. Press the strip to the inside of the dress, turn under the strip raw edge 1/4" and stitch in place by hand or machine.
RESOURCES
For more information on machine smocking, look for The Art of Machine Smocking ($15.95, postpaid) and the new Smocked Project Book ($22.95, postpaid), both by Deb Yedziniak. To order, call (315) 682-8814.
SOURCES
A variety of children's smocked clothing patterns are available from:
Chery Williams Patterns, Dept. SN,Box 190234, Birmingham, AL 35219, (205)290-2700.
Select a yoke dress pattern meant for smocking. We used Vogue 7435, View B, and eliminated the collar and sleeves to make a sundress. The featured pattern has smocking across the upper edge of the skirt front piece -- if desired, you can simply follow the pattern directions to pleat the skirt front upper edge. However, because the smocking stitches would be lost in the fabric's bright flower pattern, the featured dress front was modified by adding a separate smocked insert in a matching solid-colored fabric.