Preshrinking Interfacing - Sew News Magazine

Sewing Q&A
Marla Stefanelli
January 2003 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our January 2003 Issue

I would like to fuse interfacing to the fronts of a tailored jacket. Are there any preshrinking requirements? How can I avoid pressing marks when fusing with a damp press cloth? Is it possible to fuse with a commercial hand-held steamer to eliminate the iron marks?
Joyce R.,
e-mail

Adding fusible interfacing to a jacket front is a great way to add body and shape, especially when using light- to mediumweight fabrics. Always make test samples with the interfacing and fashion fabric to check how they'll work together. Does the combination "feel" right? Does the fusing process change the fabric color or leave a ridge? If the garment will be washable, launder the sample to see how it performs.
Refer to the interfacing instructions for preshrinking requirements. To preshrink woven and knit fusihles, fold the interfacing to fit in your sink, then immerse in hot water for ten minutes. Squeeze out the water and then remove remaining water by rolling in a towel; hang to dry.
Preshrink nonwoven fusibles using a steam iron. This is done on the fashion fabric right before fusing. First warm the fabric by pressing it with steam. Place the interfacing with the resin side down over the fashion fabric. Hold the iron 1" to 2" above the interfacing and steam for five seconds.
To fuse the interfacing, follow the manufacturer's instructions if they are available. Note: To reduce bulk, trim 1/2" from the interfacing seam allowances before fusing. Generally, use a steam iron on the wool setting and a moist press cloth. The press cloth should be similar to the fashion fabric in thickness and texture--a scrap works great. Work across the garment lifting and repositioning the iron--never sliding it-until completely fused. Use firm pressure and be sure to leave the iron in place for the required time.
If pressing marks are a problem, make sure the pressing surface is firm so the iron and fabric can't sink into it. Make sure the press cloth isn't too thin. Try pressing from the right side after fusing to remove any marks.
A commercial steamer can't be used to apply interfacing because pressure is required for a successful fuse.
For more information about using fusibles and other interfacings in jackets, refer to Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch See "Resources" at the end of this article.

RESOURCES
The following books are available from your local fabric store, bookstore or library.

Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Pati Palmer and Susan Pletsch; published by Palmer/Pletsch Inc., 2000; www.palmerpletsch .com.
Fantastic Fit for Every Body by Gale Grigg Hazen; published by Rodale Press, 1998; www.rodalestore.com.
Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto; published by Palmer/Pletsch Inc., 1998; www.palmerpletsch .com.

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