I have some stretch-woven fabric that contains Lycra. Do I need to adjust the yardage when using patterns meant for woven fabrics?
Mary K.,
Strathmore,AB
You don’t need to adjust for different yardage amounts when using a stretch-woven fabric. They are easy to sew, but you do want to sew them a little differently than woven fabrics.
Stretch-woven fabrics are made by blending a stable fiber such as cotton, wool or synthetic with a stretch fiber. Stretch-woven fabric is stable, firm and can stretch in one or both directions up to 25% to 40%, offering the appearance of traditional woven fabrics but the comfort of knits. Unlike knits, they are less bulky and don’t run. They tend to have better shape retention, are wrinkle-resistant and are more comfortable to wear because they give and move with the body.
When selecting fabric, test the recovery. Stretch the fabric in both directions--if it doesn’t return to its original shape, the resulting garment will tend to bag. Off-grain fabrics can’t be straightened so be sure the fabric print is at right angles to the lengthwise edge.
If the fabric is washable, preshrink and dry according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. If it isn’t washable, unfold the fabric and allow to relax overnight before using it.
Choose garment patterns with few pieces and crisp, tailored lines. If the pattern doesn’t suggest stretch-wovens, look for patterns that recommend linen, wool flannel, corduroy, denim and gabardine. For lightweight fabrics, choose patterns that suggest stable jerseys or crepe de chine. Avoid patterns labeled “knits only.” Follow a with-nap layout and arrange the pattern pieces so the fabric’s greatest stretch goes around the body.
Stretch-wovens can be easily damaged by hot irons, and dull needles, pins and scissors. Use ball-point pins and sewing machine needles, sizes 60/8 to 90/14 depending on the fabric weight. The ball point slides between the fibers without damaging the fabric. If skipped stitches are a problem, try a larger needle and use a needle lubricant. Use stretchable seams such as a narrow zigzag or serging. Note: If you don’t have a zigzag stitch on your machine use a texturized nylon thread in the bobbin to give the seam more stretch.
In the needle use long-staple polyester, cotton-wrapped polyester or texturized nylon thread. Set the machine for a balanced tension and 12 to 16 stitches per inch (1.5mm to 2mm). Stitch slowly, holding the fabric taut without stretching it. Note: When using a straight stitch, stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. Stop occasionally to let the fabric relax--stop with the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and then lower it again and continue sewing.
Only staystitch the necklines, armholes and waistline seams. Understitch facings to prevent them from rolling to the garment right side. For stronger seams in the crotch or underarm, stitch two rows of narrow zigzag 1/4” apart. Trim the seam to 1/4” and finish the edge.
Stabilize shoulder and waistline seams with non-stretch stay tape. Stabilize necklines and armholes with bias-cut, lightweight interfacing or lining fabric.
Use interfacings for collars, cuffs, pocket welts, flaps, waistbands, garment openings and in the button and buttonhole areas. Use an interfacing with stretch, except in waistbands and under buttonholes.
Linings are optional. If they’re constructed from a woven fabric, they may restrict the garment’s movement. Allow for lining pleats and tucks to accommodate the fabric stretch.
Test press a fabric scrap with a moderate heat setting before pressing the garment. Use a damp press cloth to prevent shine, discoloration and stretching. To set creases, saturate brown kraft paper with water, place it over the fabric and press until dry. Or spray a solution of half water and vinegar on the fabric, cover with a press cloth and press until dry.
Let the garment hang for 24 hours before marking the hem. Blindstitch the hem by hand or machine, taking an occasional backstitch as you sew. You can also topstitch the hem if desired.
Sewing Q&A