Sewing Q&A
Marla Stefanelli
June 2003 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our June 2003 Issue


Why do my shorts ride up between my legs? I'm a plus-size woman and don't know it it's because of my shape or the shorts are made wrong.
Anna H.,
e-mail
Being a plus-size often goes hand-in-hand with having fuller thighs. Part of the problem is there isn't enough fabric to go around the thighs. The friction from walking causes the fabric to ride up, also pulling the back to the front at the inner leg. Simply adding an extension to the front inseam may solve your problem.

  • On the inner leg of the front pattern, add a 2"- or 3"-wide strip of pattern tracing cloth that extends to the hem edge.

  • Measure across the fullest part of your thigh from where the side seam and inseam should be. Measure the front pattern piece and note the difference between the two. This will give you a clue as to the amount of adjustment needed.

  • On the pattern front, mark new seamlines 1/2", 1" and 1 1/2" out from the original seamline at the inseam (1). Note. If you add more than 1/2" at the inseam, you will also add half of the measurement to the front side seam so the leg will hang correctly. Don't add anything to the back pattern.

    Add tracing cloth and mark new seamlines at inseam.


  • Most shorts have a longer inseam than side seam. If your shorts don't have a longer inseam, add about 1" extra length. Make the shorts back inseam length match the front inseam.

  • Cut out the shorts front and back from scrap fabric. For the front include the total addition at the inseam and allow an extra-wide side seam allowance for possible additions there. Mark the side seam and new inner-leg seamlines on the fabric as on the pattern.

  • Pin and baste the front and back together at the side seam and 1/2" out from the original front inseam. Try on the leg, placing the front and back center at your center and aligning the waist seamline with your waistline. Hint: Tie elastic around your waist and tuck the seam allowance underneath to hold the shorts upper edge in place.

  • If the leg is still too tight, remove the stitching and move out the inseam to the 1" line-also adding 1/2" at the side seam. Baste and try on again. Continue in this manner until the leg is comfortable and hangs nicely. Mark the final adjustment on the pattern tissue.

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