Sewing Sheer Fabric - Sew News Magazine

Sewing Q&A
Terry Siemsen
August 2002 Sewing Q&A Index

I would like to know the best way to sew sheer fabrics. I'm contemplating making a sheer jacket to go over a dress.
Carolyn B.,
e-mail

The techniques used depend on the jacket's style. Choose a simple style with fewer details and seams, to make the jackets easier to construct. Patterns with bound or roll-edged front and lower edges will eliminate facings and hems that show through. Completely facing the garment front(s) eliminates facing show-through.

Begin by pinning the garment pieces wrong sides together For a pattern that has 5/8" seam allowances, stitch 1/4" seam. Press the seam open, refold the seam with right sides together and press. Stitch again 3/8" from the fold. Press the seam flat and then toward the garment back. The seam actually looks like a small tuck inside the garment.

For curved seams, such as the armhole, use a mock French seam.

Begin by stitching 5/8" seam with right sides together. Turn in the seam allowance raw edges to the seam center and press along the folds. Slipstitch or edgestitch the folds together (1).

A double hem will help the garment hang better. Again, this will work best on a straight edge. Fold up the hem along the hemline marking and press. Fold in the raw edge to meet the hem fold and press again. Stitch in place either by hand or machine

More Tips for Sheer Success
Cutting sheers: Lay out the fabric over tissue paper. Position the pattern pieces on the fabric, and pin and cut through all layers.
Use a straight-stitch throat plate, to prevent the fabric from pulling into the bobbin area. If the machine doesn't have a straight-stitch throatplate, put transparent tape over the larger hole in the zigzag throatplate.
Use a new small size needle.
Test-stitch on fabric scraps. If the fabric shreds, lengthen the stitch.
To prevent the fabric from bunching at the beginning of a seam, begin sewing on a firmer fabric scrap, then stitch onto the sheer.
To prevent puckered seams, hold the fabric taut, pulling slightly with equal pressure in front of and behind the needle as you stitch.

As a former home economics teacher, Terry Siemsen is always looking for the easiest way to achieve a beautiful-looking garment, both inside and out. She is the owner of Thimbles, Etc., specializing in custom-sized sterling and gold thimbles.

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