On the garment pattern pieces, compare the sleeve to the armhole to find the ease amount. Stand a tape measure on edge and measure the sleeve cap along the seamline from notch to notch. On the garment front and back, measure the armseye along the seamline between the shoulder seam and notch. Add the front and back measurements together to get the armseye total (2). Compare the armseye and sleeve-cap measurements.
To set in easily, the sleeve should have no more than 1 1/2" ease if using natural fabrics such as wool and linen. In synthetics and very tightly woven fabrics, the ease should be no more than 1".

• To reduce the sleeve cap ease, trim /8" from the sleeve at the shoulder dot and gradually taper back to the original seamline at the notches (3). Measure along the new seamline to check the ease amount. Repeat the process if there is still too much ease. Remove only what is necessary, or you'll end up with a very flat sleeve cap.

As a former home economics teacher, Terry Siemsen is always looking for the easiest way to achieve a beautiful-looking garment, both inside and out. She is the owner of Thimbles, Etc., specializing in custom-sized sterling and gold thimbles.

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