How do I sew a one-piece neckline/armhole facing for a sleeveless dress?
Tara O.,
Florissant, MO
For the easiest method, construct this kind of garment/facing before the side seams are sewn. Note: This method only works for garments with a center back or center front opening.
Begin by stitching the bodice front and back together at the shoulder seams. Stitch the front and back facings together at the shoulder seams. Press seams open. Clean-finish the facing lower edges. At this point, leave the underarm and center front/back seams unstitched.
With right sides together, stitch the facing to the bodice at the neck edge only (Figure 1). Grade, clip and understitch the facing seam (Figure 2). With right sides together, align the garment and facing armhole edges. The facing may extend slightly past the garment. Trim the edge to match the garment armhole. Stitch the two armhole seams (Figure 3). Grade and clip the armhole seams. Turn by pulling the garment back or front through the shoulder seams.
Figure 1
Stitch facing to bodice at neckline only.
Figure 2
Understitch neck edge.
Figure 3
Stitch facing at armhole edges.
Understitch the armhole beginning at each underarm seam and stitch toward the shoulder (Figure 4). Press. Note: The shoulder width will determine how close you can get to the shoulder seam.
Figure 4
Understitch armhole edges beginning at underarm and stitching as far as possible toward the shoulder seam.
Stitch side seams with right sides together, matching underarm seams. Stitch from the lower garment edge up through the facing edge (Figure 5). Finish the seam allowance edges and press open. Fold the facing down at the underarm seam allowance and press it in place. On the right side at the underarm side seam, stitch in the ditch to secure the facing to the bodice.
Figure 5
Open out facing and stitch side seam from hem up through facing.
