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| As a general rule, choose thinner threads and needles for the lighter fabrics, and thicker threads and needles for the heavier, sturdier fabrics. Threads are determined by number-the greater the number, the finer the thread-with #50 being the midpoint. Choose thread in a matching or slightly darker shade than the fabric. Silk thread is good for basting because it won't leave an impression on the fabric when pressed.
For very lightweight fabrics such as chiffon, georgette, fine lace, organdy or organza, use extra-fine cotton/polyester thread, or size A silk thread. For hand sewing use size 9,10, 11 or 12 sharps, betweens, milliners or beading needles. For machine sewing select a size 9/70 needle. Use taut sewing with a stitch length of 16 to 20 stitches per inch. For lightweight fabrics such as batiste, voile, lightweight silks or crepe de chine, use extra-fine cotton-covered polyester or 100% long-staple polyester. If the fabric is a natural fiber, size A silk thread or #50 to 60 mercerized cotton is best. For hand sewing use size 9 or 10 sharps, betweens, milliners or embroidery needles. For machine needles choose size 9/70 or 11/80. Sew with the fabric taut and the machine set for 12 to 16 stitches per inch. On mediumweight fabrics such as satins, moire, lace and velvet, use the same threads as mentioned for lightweight fabrics. The hand-sewing needles can be larger, such as size 5 or 6 sharps, betweens, milliners or embroidery needles. Use a size 14/90 or 16/100 machine needle and sew with 10 to 12 stitches per inch. Tension should be tested on fabric scraps. For thicker fabrics choose a looser tension so the seam isn't pulled together too tightly. If the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread will be more visible on the fabric underside. If the upper tension is too tight, the bobbin thread will be pulled to the upper side. The two threads should twist around each other midway between the two fabric layers. To adjust the tension, use the upper tension knob. Only adjust the bobbin tension as a last resort. Refer to the machine manual for directions. One way to test the tension is to stitch on a fabric scrap and pull both threads until one thread breaks. The broken thread's tension is too tight. If both threads break at the same time, the tension is balanced. |
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