Is there a way to alter a dress for a swayback?

Sewing Q&A
Marla Stefanelli
December 2002 Sewing Q&A Index
From Our December 2002 Issue

Is there a way to alter a dress for a swayback?
Irma M.,
e-mail

Horizontal folds form at the garment lower back because there’s too much fabric in the area compared to the shorter back length. A tuck all across the back can eliminate the excess but it does affect the lower hemline. Examine the hem to be sure there is enough to let down to compensate for the amount taken up in the adjustment.

While wearing the dress, have someone pin the excess out. If you don’t have someone to help, pinch and take note of the fabric amount to be eliminated. Take off the dress and pin a tuck at the center back waistline seam equal to the pinched amount, tapering to almost nothing at the side seams. Try on the dress again to check the adjustment and alter if necessary.

Mark along the pins with tailor’s chalk or a disappearing ink pen for the new seamline (6); remove the pins.

Pin out excess, tapering to nothing at side seams.

Pin out excess, tapering to nothing at side seams.

Release the waistline stitching to the side seams. The skirt width below the waistline is wider than the original seam length so the darts may need to be enlarged. If the extra width amount is more than 1”, add two small darts, one on each side to take up the excess (7).

Add small darts to eliminate excess width.

Add small darts to eliminate excess width.

Release the zipper stitching below the waistline.

Sew the new seam across the back, tapering to nothing at the side seams. Re-stitch the zipper below the waistline.

Check the back hemline. If it’s uneven, let out the hem and hem the lower edge so it’s straight.

If the dress doesn't have a waistline seam, you can create one all around the dress.

Tie a length of 1/4” elastic around your waist and mark along one edge for the waistline seam. At the waistline, fold the fabric with the right sides together and stitch with a 1/4” seam across the front and then taper to the tucked amount plus an extra 1/4” at the center back seam. Again, the hem evenness will be affected. Adjust if necessary.

RESOURCE

For more information on altering clothes, look for Altering Women’s Ready-to-Wear by Mary A. Roehr, Available at JoAnn Fabric Stores or from Mary Roehr Books & Videos for $19.95 (plus $3.50 shipping), Dept. SN, 500 Saddlerock Circle, Sedona, AZ 86336, (800) 291-6764 or www.maryroehr.com.

Subscribe
More Articles
Past Issues