I need to make a velvet skirt and I can't even get the pattern pinned without the fabric slipping. What are the tricks to sewing velvet? Lea L.,
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Sewing velvet can be a challenge, just take your time and complete each step slowly. You'll want to choose a simple style with few darts and details.
Velvet is displayed in the store by securing one edge to the hanger and hanging it. This is also how it should be stored at home so the nap isn't crushed or damaged.
Preshrink the velvet before cutting. If the garment will be dry-cleaned, place it in a single layer over the shower rod with the right side facing out and steam it. Let it dry thoroughly before touching.
Follow a napped layout when cutting the fabric. The nap can go whichever direction you desire, just be consistent. Velvet seems to wear better with the nap running up the body-the opposite is true of other napped fabrics.
Cut the fabric in a single layer with the wrong side facing up. It's helpful to make a duplicate pattern when you need more than one of a certain piece. Be sure to flip the second pattern piece so you have two opposite pieces. Also make full-size patterns for pieces designed to be placed on the fold. Pin only in the seam allowances and cut with the nap whenever possible. Transfer any marks onto the fabric wrong side. If you need to mark on the right side, make tailor's tacks with silk thread.
Cut facings from a lightweight lining fabric, or simply line the whole garment to the edge to eliminate the facings.
To sew, pin the layers together only in the seam allowances. Hand stitch two rows of basting--one along the seamline and one 1/8" outside in the seam allowance.
Use an even-feed, walking or roller foot to help feed both fabric layers through evenly. If the presser foot leaves tracks on the fabric, place a layer of tissue paper over the seam and stitch through it--tear it away after stitching. Loosen the upper tension and reduce the presser-foot pressure slightly. Use a 2 mm straight stitch for lighter weight velvets, and a slightly longer stitch for heavier velvets. Sew holding the fabric taut and push the velvet layers together with your fingertips before they feed under the presser foot. Sew with the nap whenever possible. Make a test sample with two 12"-long scraps and make machine adjustments if necessary.
After sewing the seam, vacuum the raw edges to remove loose pile threads.
Use a needleboard to press velvet. Place the fabric right side down on the board; the needles prevent the nap from being crushed. Use a steam iron and hold it 1/2" above the fabric and steam. Then finger-press the seam open--don't touch the iron to the fabric. If you accidentally flatten the nap, spray it lightly with water and use a hair dryer or soft brush to fluff the nap.
Avoid topstitching and machine-made buttonholes. Consider using loops and buttons for closures instead.
This information was current when published in the December 2003 issue of Sew News. No guarantee is made regarding availability. Stay up-to-date with current sources by subscribing today!
